Maxie Meets Frigiliana • Travel Watch News

Well it’s my Granddaughter Maxie’s second holiday at 7 months old and what a poignant destination. The beautiful Andalusian white pueblo village where Maxie’s parents Sarah and David were married in September 2022.

Less than two years later, they return with Maxie, their little bundle of joy, and introduce her to village life and their Spanish friends.

Frigiliana – The Village

This village is one of the famous blanco pueblos in Southern Spain which regularly and quite rightly makes it into the ‘The 10 most beautiful villages in Spain’ list.

Nestled 5 km above Nerja and just 70 km (45 minute car drive) away from Malaga, Frigiliana is located on the slopes of Sierra Almijara. Certain points in the village offer incredibly beautiful views across the campo to the Mediterranean Sea.

Hands up, I am totally biased and have been smitten by this stunning village and its friendly people since I first visited about twenty years ago. I have said before I would quite happily settle in Barbados or Frigiliana, even better 6 months in each with numerous return trips to Gourock thrown in.

The village offers everything with fabulous restaurants (highlighted later), a gym, sports centre, open air swimming pool, small botanical gardens and easy access via a 15 minute bus journey to the fabulous beaches and the town of Nerja.

Video Synopsis

Note the correct link to the Avid Ytavrllers is http://Avidtraveller.news

Over the years my family and I have created lasting friendships with both locals and expats alike. Some if not most of them will feature in this travel blog.

Several years ago I wrote my fifth blog about a walk through the old town main street, Calle Real and since then I have been hesitant about further broadcasting this true Andalusian secret.

Frigiliana has deep Muslim roots which are embodied in its urban layout with its narrow cobbled streets and steep steps. The village was prominent in the history of Spain during the Moorish uprising and some of the houses are the most authentic expressions of traditional Arabic architecture, particularly in the Barrio Alto neighbourhood.

Since 3,000 years before the birth of Christ, Frigiliana was also the area in which the Phoenicians and then the Romans established themselves, the latter fortifying the town and giving it the name by which it is known today.

Due to its religious and historical links the village hosts the Three Cultures festival to celebrate the co-existence of Christian, Muslim and Jewish cultures. The festival is normally held on the last weekend in August and demonstrates the rich heritage left by these three cultures, promoting tolerance and understanding between diverse communities.

Oh how those countries and regions currently at war could learn from this small village!

Top Tip

At the height of summer most visitors to the village are bussed in and out during the day, so evenings in the village tend to be a bit quieter. I would say never mind what the tourist guidance tells you as just simply wandering around the old town of this beautiful whitewashed village is in itself is a delight for the eyes. The higher you climb fighting against the heat, the quieter and more tranquil it gets! The sight of the cobbled streets and houses with traditional white Andalusian façades often decorated with ceramics and colourful flower pots just make you smile.

No wonder it’s known as the ‘Pearl of Axarquía’. To top it all it’s located on the edge of a nature reserve with stunning local walks suitable from beginner to the most experienced.

Places to visit

My personal recommendation of locations to visit start near to the bus stop and taxi rank, right in between the old and new parts of the village.

Casa del Apero

A quick climb of the steps behind the ever popular Bar Virtudes to visit Casa del Apero which hosts the village museum. Built in the 17th century it was previously a shed to store tools and a stable for animals who worked the nearby fields. Today it is where you’ll find the tourist office and upstairs is a viewpoint with panoramic views of the village, campo and the Mediterranean Sea.

El Ingenio

The honey factory overlooking the village dates back to 1620 and is the only sugar-cane factory still existing in Europe. It has great historical value and is a perfect example of the transition in Frigiliana from a Moorish village to Christian village. Only open to the public on special occasions and booked via the tourist office.

Church of San Antonio de Padua

The Church at night and a visit by Maxie.

The Church of San Antonio de Padua sits overlooking a beautiful village square, Plaza de la Iglesia. Apart from the fact that Maxie’s parents Sarah & David were married in the Church in September 2022, it is considered the most important church in Frigiliana. Built on the remains of a mosque in renaissance style in 1676.

Puppet Theatre

I must admit this was not really a top attraction for me until Maxie’s arrival. A cute little kiosk situated next to the bus stop, it houses puppets dressed as villagers. Insert a coin, select your language and you will hear all about the village history. Popular with tourists young and old.

Old or New Fountain

This fountain is crowned by coat of arms of Don Iñigo Martínez Lara and was commissioned in 1640. Named initially the Fuente Nueva (New Fountain) it has three spouts and was used to supply water to the village. Throughout the years its name has been changed to Fuente Vieja (Old Fountain). Can be found on Pl. de la Fuente Vieja near to Calle Chorruelo.

Calle Real

An old Mercedes blends in with the village cobbled streets.

Calle Real is the narrow cobbled main street through the old part of the village. I have already written about a walk through Calle Real in my first Frigiliana Travel blog and remains absolutely picture perfect. If you walk up through this winding street you will pass bars, restaurants, bakers and shops. It has a certain buzz and an amazing atmosphere about it. If walking from the bus stop you’ll come to a fork with stairs off to the Apero hill. This is probably the most photographed spot in the village and appears in calendars, adverts and brochures all over the world. The tip here is don’t stop keep going along Calle Real and drop by one of the bars for a drink, perfect for people watching!

Village Vista Points

The village has some great viewpoints which display incredible panoramic views across the campo and down towards the Mediterranean Sea. Popular public ones are Calle Santo Cristo and another on Callejón del Peñón.

El Torreón – Faithful Lookout

One of the oldest places in the village is the Torreón which now houses a charming boutique hotel,109 El Torreón, in front of the Town Hall. This is where the old Pósito was located, essentially a watchtower against pirates.

Village Fiestas & Ferias

If there is a fiesta or feria on during your visit be sure to expect crowds. I have already touched on the Three Cultures festival when the village is entirely different and during all of these celebrations it can be extremely busy. Booking restaurants during such events is a must.

Feria Del Frigiliana

The Frigiliana Feria is celebrated in honour of its Patron Saint San Antonio de Padua on 13th to 16th June. Every year the roar of rockets marks the beginning of the San Antonio festivities and four or five days of a busy fair program with different activities and contests. Locals wear traditional dress and party on.

Tania, Ana, Sandra, Maya and Edu in traditional dress.

On June 13, the central day of the festivities, a traditional pilgrimage is celebrated in which the Patron Saint is transported on a wagon pulled by oxen from the church that bears his name to an area known as the “El” (“old well”).

A very busy 5 days with entertainment lasting into the early hours. Personally it’s too busy for me and I far prefer the village in its normal sedate self. Although I completely understand that this an opportunity for the village bars and restaurants to make some money which probably keeps them afloat in the winter months.

Recommended restaurants

Frigiliana has a large number of excellent restaurants and with stiff competition if you’re not good you don’t survive, especially during the winter months. The Plaza area has seven or eight good restaurants such as 3 Cultures for tapas, restaurant Marisqueria El Sacristan for seafood and the recently opened, Spice Fusion (padron pepper pakora is outstanding). The following restaurants are my favourites and come highly recommended.

El Casino

Situated in Calle Real this restaurant has a private terrace with absolutely stunning views across the campo to the coast. It’s also where I annually bump into John and Hazel Laing from Inverkip and whatever guests they have accompanying them. First time customers are often mesmerised and sit in awe of the view. Paco and Lidia the owners speak no English and I relish the challenge of communication, it only encourages me to learn a different Spanish phrase or saying each time I visit. The staff (Luis) also make the place very welcoming and take care in looking after every customer.

This was the restaurant where we took some of Sarah & David’s wedding guests for a pre-event get together. Even with close to 60 people all eating at the same time it was a breeze for the staff. It was also on this spectacular terrace that we were privileged to listen to my good friend Stewart Carle play ‘Balmoral’ on his bagpipes. This is a retreat played as a slow air and was to mark the announcement of the death of HRH Queen Elizabeth II. A poignant moment in what was an exciting occasion.

Over the years we have got to know Paco and Lidia’s children, Caetano and Abraham, so it was great being able to introduce my granddaughter Maxie. The food is just a good as the service and the Casino salad is fantastic. Main meals are great but I love having a few raciones (larger than tapas) to share on the table. I can only highly recommend this restaurant for food, staff and views.

La Algeria Del Barrio

Tucked away on Calle Chorruello, which is a continuation of Calle Real, is my favourite village bar. It’s the small but perfect La Algeria del Barrio, frequented by locals, expats and tourists. Hosts Tania and her husband, chef Kevin have recently refurbished the bar which looks fantastic and is the perfect stop off for drinks or food. Evening meals are good value and great tasting too! If you visit and Tania’s father Edu is present have a chat with him, he is a legend in the village and a font of local knowledge. The bar is also where you may meet Tommy Williamson in ‘his’ seat in the corner of the bar. A true gentleman from Scotland and great to chat to too!

I’ve sat many a time in the sunny doorway sipping a cold beer just watching the world go by or the sun setting above the campo hills. This spot can be very busy but worth every moment!

Highly recommended. It’s great to see this hard working, young couple taking the bar from strength to strength and now branching out with a second bar called La Algeria del Fandangos further down the road.

Bar Virtudes

Fantastic location in the heart of the town. Can be very busy but another great place for breakfast, lunch or dinner. In the height of summer queues form for a table but the waiters are spot on and run the queuing system very well. It offers great snack foods and main meals along with a good choice of drinks at sensible prices. It looks onto the Plaza so if there is a market or gig on it’s perfect to sit, relax and watch the goings on. The staff, led by shift leaders Raul and Alberto, are very good and the service is quick for such a busy restaurant. Ideal place to enjoy a drink while waiting for the Nerja bus which stops 20 metres away or just to people watch. Recommended if you’re not going deep into the old part of the village.

Punto de Encuentro

Javi and Auxi run Punto De Encuentro, again on Calle Real. Auxi makes excellent food and the barrels outside in the street are a perfect spot to sit in the shade and watch the world of Frigiliana go by. If in season, try the avocados and salsa or the cod fritters in local honey. Just fantastic, so fresh and expertly made by Auxi. Another recommended place to eat or have a cold drink.

Bar Vinos El Lagar

This is a bar on the hill leading to Calle Real above the bus stop and taxi rank. It’s also a shop with local produce but to sit outside at the barrels overlooking the main road in the village is fantastic. Over the years I’ve sat many times in the sunshine at this bar and never once thought about sitting looking down on my granddaughter on the baby swings in the kids play park below but this year it happened. Great to witness her delight at playing on the swings, accompanied by her parents of course! The bar owner Adrian has a huge selection of wines and local drinks as well as very good tapas offers paired with local beers or the village wine. Due to its proximity to the bus stop it’s sometimes hard to get a spot but that just shows how popular it is. Great place for a drink and tapas while watching the Frigiliana world go about their daily business.

La Bocateria de Nuria

This is a great little bar/coffee shop for a light breakfast or lunch. It’s at the far end of the village and if you’re walking the village perimeter then an ideal stop off for coffee or a cold drink.

El Adarve

This restaurant is tucked away amongst the small streets high up in Frigiliana. It’s one of the highest restaurant in the village so the terrace provides spectacular views. Not forgetting the excellent food, service and friendliness. It’s a little gem although a hike to get there, especially in the heat of late afternoon or early evening, but certainly worth it. Fortunately there’s a great seat opposite the entrance on Calle Alta to gather yourself and cool down after the climb before you make your entrance into the restaurant. It’s also great to see Antonio back at work after his medical operation. Highly recommend and one not to be missed.

La Barca, Burriana Beach

Merendero Restaurante La Barca is on Burriana beach in Nerja. Founded in 1967 its location is perfect for beach views and people watching. I know it’s not in the village but it really is worth a mention.

The restaurant has a good range of dishes, mostly Mediterranean style where seafood and fish predominate, although meat choices are also available along with special menus for little ones. Without a doubt, the ideal restaurant to go to with the family on a day at the beach.

On our last visit we chose the boquerones al limón with a mixed salad. They were outstanding! We followed this with arroz caldoso con carabineros. This was very interesting as it’s essentially a wet paella with the English menu translation being soggy rice! Doesn’t sound appetising but what a treat it was. Thankfully we took a friend’s advice and ordered a portion for two between the four of us. Absolutely delicious and crammed full of fresh fish. Even Maxie got tucked in with a few small tastes!

Arroz caldoso con carabineros.

In addition, La Barca offers a beachfront hammock service at competitive prices which means you can book your sunbed and lunch or dinner service all at once. A new restaurant for us thanks to a recommendation. Although not in Frigiliana, only a short bus journey and beach front walk to a highly recommended restaurant whose staff go that extra bit to ensure you enjoy your visit.

The Darker Past

The village does have history which could be described as being on the ‘darker’ side. The local cemetery is bizarrely fascinating and has appeared in many films, one in particular is The Death of Antonio Sanchez Lomas. A local film which is about his murder by the Guardia Civil in 1952. This was during the brutal dictatorship of General Franco and caused collective trauma on the villagers. Even when we were last in the village they had a camera crew filming a story about two missing girls. Quite disturbing when you see the head shots and hundreds of candles used to light a shrine for the two missing girls. Just as well this was fiction and not a news crew. Thankfully now all is peaceful in the village but the older locals don’t forget – especially as Antonio’s relatives still live there.

Travel & Transport

While Spain has a terrific train system, the area around Frigiliana relies on its bus and taxi infrastructure. The daily bus to and from Nerja bus station to Frigiliana is frequent and now also operates on a Sunday. Nerja Bus Station is somewhat of a misnomer as it’s effectively a layby on the N-340 with a small ticket kiosk. But don’t be mistaken it provides excellent and regular bus links throughout the region.

There are several taxis in operation in the area but if you’re going to pre-book an airport transfer I suggest you use Taxi Frigiliana. WhatsApp or call them on +34 696 969469 or check out their website www.taxifrigiliana.com if you require a taxi service to get to or travel from Frigiliana. Owned and run by Paulino Lopez, it’s a stand-out in terms of service, honesty and integrity. Paulino and Sergio really looked after Maxie during any journeys and provided a baby car seat for her.

Living the village life

I have said previously that I would quite happily live in Barbados or Frigiliana, even better 6 months in each with numerous return trips to Gourock thrown in, however circumstances dictate that I must settle for month long trips to both sunny locations.

There is a wealth of properties of all sizes available to rent, short or long term. Check out AirBnb and VRBO. Purchasing a property is made easy by the local agents, Edwards Estate Agents who have been 30 years in the local real estate sector. Scott Edwards, Rachel, Hans or Mandy are very professional and will be willing to assist you in any way they can. If you are interested in buying or a long term rental contact them on:

Email: info@edwardsestates.es
Tel: 0034 680 699 704.

I have always had a keen interest in the local property market. Property prices have continually been rising over the years and I very much wished I had purchased 10/15 years ago. although Brexit has now moved the goal posts. My advice if you don’t have access to a pool, find a property near the municipal pool as in the heat of summer you will need it.

Hotel accommodation is available at El Torreon 109 and Miller’s of Frigiliana, both are small boutique hotels on Calle Real in the old town. Impressive accommodation and very good location. In the newer part of the village Hotel Las Chinas has a few rooms available, while the much larger Hotel Villa Frigiliana has rooms spread over its five floors and has been partially renovated.

Cortijo Maria Luisa

Maxie visiting her parents’ wedding venue.

The Cortijo María Luisa is a stunning Spanish villa set in 10,000 square metres of grounds on the outskirts of Nerja and very close to Frigiliana. Surrounded by mountains and with spectacular sea views, it’s a wonderful setting for up to 100 people to celebrate special events in life whether that be birthdays, christenings, communions, anniversaries, or especially weddings.

This was where Maxie’s parents Sarah & David had their wedding reception and when Marina the owner realised Maxie’s middle name ‘Luisa’ was after the venue we were invited back for some photographs. Walking through the impressive gates I can still hear Stewart Carle playing the bagpipes to welcome the guests. Little did we know in September 2022 that 21 months later we’d be visiting with Maxie Luisa! A lovely gesture from Marina. Looking back the wedding reception was such a perfect day, celebrating with close friends and family in the beautiful gardens and pool area with an outside bar and large dance floor was so memorable. Marina provided the utmost professional help in organising such a huge life event and ensured it was an unforgettable day. We left feeling like part of the family and not just a client.

Cortijo María Luisa is the perfect place to celebrate with friends and family and we cannot recommended it highly enough. It is genuinely the special place you’ve been looking for!

Email: info@cortijomarialuisa.com
Tel: 0034 618 294 28

Amusing village sights

There are a few village quirks that make me laugh, or is it just my sense of humour.

There is a ladies clothing shop called ‘Titis’
The elderly men of the village are taken every morning to sit in the shade outside the village pharmacy to meet and chat with their friends. How close are they to their medication?
Despite it being a white village the local painting & decorating company is called ‘Color In’.

Maxie and Frigiliana

Excited Maxie on Dotto the Tourist Train but all too much when you’re tired.

It was a true joy to introduce Maxie to Frigiliana and to our village friends. Every one of them welcomed her with open arms and went out of their way to accommodate her every need. Most just wanted a cuddle. From strolling the cobbled streets, swimming in the pool to cool off, travelling on Dotto the village train where the motion sent her to sleep before the half way point, to sampling local mangoes she smiled constantly. Such a relaxed and chilled child with nothing phasing her, I just wonder who she takes that from?

Too small for armbands but loving the pool float under watchful eyes

Sunsets on our Frigiliana trip

Well that’s another trip over with many hugs of friendship welcoming Maxie to this beautiful village. I can confidently say she will return again and again. The village is home to a mix of nationalities living village life to the full, in amongst Spanish families who have been lucky enough to live there for generations.

Ian R. Clayton’s fabulous book Rogues in Paradise, once again resonates with me and our friends in the village. They are ‘rogues’ like Ian’s true to life Barbados characters just loveable and personable people going about daily village business.

A visit or a stay to Frigiliana is highly recommended and if you do go you will undoubtedly meet many friendly locals such as Tania & Kevin, Edu & Sandra (La Algeria Del Barrio) Paco & Lidia (EL Casino), Javi & Auxi (Punto de Encuentro), and Antonio (Adarve).

Tania and Kevin with Maxie.

A special thanks for their kindness to Maxie on her first visit and to Marina at Cortijo Maria Luisa for inviting her to the spectacular venue and of course to Marina’s daughter Luisa for Maxie’s beautiful traditional flamenco dress.

Muchos gracias mis amigos.