Madrid in 72 Hours & A Case Across the World • Travel Watch News

This travel blog was written while spending 3 days in magical Madrid in late September 2024. From a brief conversation over drinks at Gleneagles we found ourselves visiting Madrid with friends Suzanne, Richard, Pamela and Bill.

From the outset Madrid 72 hours just flew by as we all lost ourselves in the bustling streets and squares of Madrid. Spending time together as a group and alone as couples was a perfect mix in what was a wonderful weekend. Madrid was part one of a trip which included flying onto Lanzarote for some further sunshine and heat and to celebrate our daughter’s special birthday.

Madrid in 72 Hours - — **The Catedral de Santa Maria la Real de la Almunena.**

A Case Across The World

Let’s get the elephant in the room out first. Our British Airways flight from London Heathrow on 18 September touched down on time in Madrid’s Barajas Airport. All was going well until our flight number didn’t have a baggage reclaim belt number attached to it on the arrivals board. This remained blank for the whole evening. Only through word of mouth from fellow passengers did we learn that Belt 5 was where our luggage was or should have been. I eventually found my suitcase here despite the fact it displayed Manchester and Marrakech signs.

No matter how hard I searched my wife’s suitcase remained missing!

On reporting it to the Iberia Lost Luggage desk we were provided with a report number and informed that Julie’s suitcase was still in London. We were further informed that the missing luggage would be flown out early the next morning and delivered to us at our hotel.

All good and well but despite the missing baggage portal being updated to this effect the case wouldn’t arrive at our hotel.

After five days of no communication and numerous phone calls which were automatically terminated on connection, we were eventually told Julie’s case was in Madrid and would be delivered by 2030 on Monday 23 September.

Yet again no suitcase arrived.

About 40 telephone calls later with virtually all ending up being cut off, one which was answered resulted in speaking to British Airways staff in an overseas call centre. No progress was achieved and all that was done was another two missing luggage reference numbers were raised.

This time when pushed on the location of the missing suitcase Julie was told it had been flown to Cali Airport. The call handler had to look up as to which country Cali Airport was in and turns out it’s near Bogotá, Columbia, South America.

So we boarded our flight to Lanzarote on 24 September with no further trace of the missing suitcase and no action taken by British Airways or partners to return it to either our hotel address or our home address in Scotland.

Not a great advert for what was once the ‘world’s favourite airline’!

Madrid

Let’s move on to the purpose of this blog, Madrid.

Madrid has been the capital of Spain since mid-sixteenth century, when Philip II transferred the capital from Toledo. Between 1601 and 1606 the capital of Spain was moved to Valladolid but subsequently returned to Madrid.

Madrid’s inhabitants, approximately 3.3 million in number, are called “Madrileños” or “Matritense” (in English, Madrileans).

Our hotel situated on Calle de Atocha was ideally located to explore the sights and sounds of the city and provided a great introduction to Madrid culture. Walking around this cosmopolitan and international city is simple and very easy. This is true Spain and not only the heart of the country but for many locals it’s the centre of their world.

Three days in the city provides enough time to dive into the sights, culture and food.

Across the three days we spent together with friends, each couple (well the girls really) chose something to do. Suzanne & Richard chose dinner at a secret cave restaurant, while Pamela & Bill chose a paella masterclass. Julie and I chose a tapas & wine walking tour.

I delve deeper into each of these later in the blog.

Accommodation

CoolRooms Palacio Atocha
Calle de Atocha, 34, Centro,28012

An impressive hotel ideally situated at 34 Calle de Atocha, a short walking distance from most of the Madrid’s city attractions. CoolRooms Atocha sits in the heart of Las Letras neighborhood, one of the most attractive areas in the city and is the flagship hotel from the CoolRooms brand. The building was a majestic palatial house from 1852 rehabilitated into a luxury hotel. The internal decor, sumptuous interiors and more importantly the amazing staff guarantee a memorable stay in the heart of Madrid.

The modest exterior almost shrouds the 19th-century palace-house in secrecy, but as soon as you step inside you’ll appreciate the richly decorated molded walls and ceilings plus stunning, bright and spacious rooms and suites.

The ground floor boasts a perfect little bar, a lovely deck area with a cool (very) pool and seating for about 30 persons. The breakfast room is next to the pool and can alternate between opening all windows or using internal patio heaters if it’s cold.

A nightcap in the bar was always great and we managed to catch up with other guests from Toronto and New Jersey giving us the opportunity to share and learn from each others experiences in the city.

The staff must be congratulated from the cleaning team to bar staff, reception and restaurant staff, all are so friendly and welcoming.

Joe Diaz from reception along with Ismael and Marmen in the bar and restaurant definitely need a special mention. They went out of their way to say hello and take care of you. Not forgetting the night owl Luis, again on reception.

The hotel was expertly chosen by Suzanne, it is impressive and a highly recommended hotel which makes you want to return again and again!

The Three Choices

Day – 1
Bodega de los Secretos
Calle San Blas Nº 4, Madrid – 28014

Taking up the first night challenge of booking a restaurant, Richard and Suzanne didn’t let us down …. they never do! The jokes about it being a secret never stopped but the secret is now out. This is a wonderful restaurant in a beautiful setting. In Bodega de los Secretos they provide a gastronomic experience of Mediterranean cuisine in stunning and cozy 17th century alcoves. It’s full of olde world charm and charisma, quite unique and a visit is highly recommended.

On arrival the tight stairway leads you deep down to the centuries old brick built alcoves and corridors which is just magical.

I’m not going to mention all six of our dishes, just the stand outs, although all were great with empty plates all round.

The starter stand outs were grilled Zamburiñas (scallops) with lime flavour while Richard raved about his tuna belly salad with four different tomato varieties. Pamela added a dish for the table of fresh burrata with tomato tartar and basil. All were very tasty and exceptionally well presented.

Thankfully the courteous staff asked if we wished a break between starters and mains which was gratefully accepted.

For our main courses Richard and Suzanne certainly stole the show, they must have done some research! Richard had oxtail with garnacha sauce, mushrooms and potato mousseline while Suzanne chose the impressive looking grilled octopus with Vera paprika oil and truffled potato cream.

Our red wine of choice was just fantastic. El Pacto De Cárdenas Ojo Gallo, a Rioja with a lovely label showing a hand shake. How appropriate when out on a trip with good friends.

Unfortunately there was no room for dessert or a ‘Happy Sweet Ending’ as they call it! Finishing off with coffee and a Pedro Ximenez sherry for some topped off a fantastic first night thanks to Richard and Suzanne.

A very high standard of food in a stunning centuries old setting with staff who are on the ball. Highly recommended!

Day – 2

Madrid local tapas and wine tour with drinks and views from rooftop bar.

As we had previously completed a pintxos and wine tour in San Sebastián which was excellent, we booked a tapas and wine walking tour with World Experience. We hoped that this would provide us with some local insights as well as tastings of local Spanish produce.

We met up with Mario who was super enthusiastic just outside the San Miguel Market. With numbers close to 30 people attending we were slightly hesitant about what we had signed up for however that soon disappeared when the large group was split in two and we headed off with Mario and fellow guests.

After some quick introductions our group, from Australia, Chicago, New Jersey and of course Scotland, headed to our first stop.

Extrem Puro – Extremadura
Calle del Arenal, 22, Centro, 28013.

This is a high end delicatessen shop with amazing products. We enjoyed a glass of Pago de Larrainzar from Navarro along with four different Iberian meats ranging from pork, chorizo, salchichon and 100% Iberian Bellota. What a great start and coupled with the delicious speciality olive oil to dip our bread it was a place we would certainly revisit.

Before our next visit we stopped for some brief local history on the surrounding area from Mario.

Our next premises was quite unexpected and absolutely jam packed with people from all over the world.

Meson de Champinon
Cava de San Miguel, 17, Centro, 28005.

This is a bar restaurant that specialises in mushrooms and only mushrooms. They were delicious as was the authentic sangria which came with the food. A venue which the vegetarian members of our group really liked!

A bizarre experience but we bumped into the owner ‘Senor Champinon’ as we christened him who was delighted with his bar and the fact that it was so busy. Looking into the restaurant area from the bar every table was packed out with people eating mushrooms, drinking sangria and seat dancing to the beat of a keyboard player.

It was like something out a movie scene but hey don’t knock it when you have a successful business in a very niche market, good on Senor Champinon. He did seem like a fungi though!

Another history lesson about the area from Mario and a recommendation for a restaurant which was not in the tour but happens to be or claims to be the oldest restaurant in the world, Botin (Calle Cuchilleros 17).

Our next stop was probably about a 15 minute walk away and the longest stretch by far of the tour.

La Abaceria
Calle Acuerdo 36, 28015 Madrid

Gambas pil pil was on offer along with a Roble red wine called Laudum made with the Monastrell and Syrah grapes. We all sat around a large table as a group and chatted about where we were from and how we ended up in Madrid. Artichoke for the vegetarians and ham croquettes for the lovely Chicago guy who had an allergy to seafood.

Afterwards we stood outside the Teatro Espanol and had a brief history lesson which was just frightening in the context of 2024 but back in the days of Spanish civil war was sadly reality.

Our penultimate stop was a very short walk from Teatro Espanol and a delightful square where we would return to several times for lunch and dinner.

Casa Verona
Plaza de Matute, 13

This place was in a beautiful little plaza just two minutes walk from our hotel. Taken into the beating heart of the restaurant and a room just big enough for all of us. The non vegetarians had the most succulent beef cheeks. Not the most expensive cut of meat but it was cooked perfectly and just melted in your mouth. It was accompanied by a Bodega Nexus which is a 2018 Camino Special Selection from Ribera del Duero. I must say for a tour the wine and the beef cheeks matched perfectly. It made me smile even wider when our vegetarian tour companions were served a plain salad!

So we moved onto our final stop and the rooftop bar. Part of the group from New Jersey pretty much kept themselves to themselves but our Chicago guy and lovely Australian lady thankfully joined us again at this venue.

Thompson Madrid Hotel by Hyatt
Plaza del Carmen

A stunning 5 Star hotel with a roof top to die for. Certainly the service didn’t match the hype but the views were great although it was dark by the time we arrived. A rum cocktail which was overly sweet just didn’t do it so a simple cold beer was called for.

A great group photo, minus the vegetarians who again didn’t want to mingle, finished off the eventful night.

A really good experience because of the company and great places we visited. It also opened up opportunity for the two single travellers that joined our group to meet people.

Day – 3

Paella Masterclass with Chef Oliver Menendez

Bill and Pamela booked us all onto a paella masterclass in the stunning gardens of the Ritz Mandarin Oriental hotel. Our class was delayed from late morning due to the weather and we were rebooked to 1645 which was actually a better time.

On arrival we were taken through the gardens to the outside kitchen and introduced to Chef Oliver Menendez. Oliver explained the concept of what our next two hour masterclass would involve and then took us on an exceptional culinary journey into the heart of Valencian paella and black rice and lobster paella. Oliver detailed the ingredients and spent some time explaining the background and work that goes into making the important stock and the simple but so tasty sofrito.

While sitting at the bar of the kitchen watching and listening to Oliver we were provided with tastings of three different sherries, all from Jerez-Xérès in the south west of Spain.

Our first was a Tio Pepe – Palomino Fino Sherry which was quite dry but went down well in the sun.

The second was La Guita – Manzanilla was drier still but light and salty. A very popular sherry which I can understand why!

Lastly we sampled Antique Palo Cortado by Fernando de Castilla. This was a contrasting experience as it was cloudy and carmel in colour with citrus fruit notes. Not one I’d have chosen due to its appearance but actually very nice.

Chef Oliver then demonstrated his craft and exceptional skills and cooked two Valencian paellas on the large induction hobs. Taking the time to talk us through every step and paying particular attention to the final act of essentially caramelising the base of the bomba rice. Then it was tasting time. Just magnificent, Oliver made it look simple and as he said a great food for socialising and sharing with friends.

Next was the black rice with squid and lobster so fresh it was still alive. Oliver demonstrated how to dissect the lobster then again expertly cooked two pans of delicious paella. Different and salty in comparison to the Valencian style dish but outstanding and certainly the best black rice paella I’ve ever tasted.

The red wine we had to accompany our paella was Heredad de Uruena, a Santo Syrah 2016 wine from Castilla y León. Again a new experience and absolutely perfect for paella. One for the notepad to seek out in the future!

We finished up this unforgettable masterclass with a delightful dessert of yoghurt and Parma violet ice cream with popping candy.

Not forgetting our gifts of exclusive recipe cards and stylish aprons this was an experience to remember.

This 2-hour experience passed in what seemed like minutes, its offered every Saturday and Sunday is not to be missed. Thanks to birthday boy Oliver’s humour and knowledge it was a true highlight of our trip.

Thanks Chef Oliver Menendez we arrived strangers and left feeling like family, we certainly hope to meet you again – even better if you cook for us too!

That good I’d do it again tomorrow!

(The paella masterclass is priced at €175 per person and requires a minimum of 4 people and a maximum of 8. Availability is limited and advance booking is required.)

Day – 3 Extra Activity

Teatro Flamenco Madrid
Calle Pez, 10 28004 Madrid

This was forced upon the boys after we had been plied with a few beers but actually it was a great experience.

Although flamenco is based on the various folk music traditions of southern Spain, mainly Andalusia, it also has a history in the Extremadura and Murcia regions of Spain.

At Teatro Flamenco the heart of Andalusia certainly beats in a corner of Madrid. The venue provides a unique and intimate show.

As we booked late we ended up right at the front of the stage. On arrival we were taken to our seats and our drinks order taken immediately, very impressive indeed. Sitting watching the talented dancers up close created a mesmerising and spectacular atmosphere.

In sixty minutes the dancers and musicians take you through an emotional performance with impressive music, singing, stunning costumes, castanets and of course flamenco shoes.

A real Andalusian experience which is recommended if you haven’t been to similar before. The talented performers certainly made it a memorable evening.

Recommended Restaurants

Casa Verona
Plaza de Matute, 13

We were introduced to this restaurant during our tapas and wine tour and decided to go back on our last night in the city.

It was strangely quiet when we entered and staff member Andi took great care of us explaining the process of ordering food and drinks. We ordered anchovies in olive oil, garlic and red chillis and the sirloin steak with chimichuri sauce to share. The steak sandwich came first which surprised us but it was melt in your mouth steak, perfectly cooked. The chimichuri sauce gave the dish a little kick. It was so tasty. While we waited on our anchovies the restaurant very quickly filled up. Andi and other staff members honestly worked their socks off, serving drinks, taking orders and making food in the bar/kitchen. Then our anchovies arrived and turned out to be another delicious serving.

A highly recommended restaurant and one which we will return to when next in the city.

La Merecida
Calle de las Huertas, 20 Plaza de Matute

A great little place. We stopped twice here just for a drink and ended up having food. Meals were delicious and so freshly made. Lovely little square with lots of locals mixing with tourists. Plaza De Matute is a great place for people watching. A great recommendation for an informal cafe/restaurant where the service is just as good as the food.

Casa Alberto
Calle de las Huertas 18

This little bar is close on 200 years old, locals say the history of Casa Alberto is the history of Madrid and that of Spain. Over the years great characters have sat at these very tables passing through life as the bar continues to trade on. Great selection of tapas and a formal restaurant can be found as you walk through the bustling bar and into the heart of the premises.

We sat at the bar with a cooling breeze blowing in from outside. It was perfect to watch the mix of locals and tourists jostling for a table. Booking days in advance for a table in the restaurant is advised while you need to take a chance and queue for a bar table.

As we were in Madrid we had to try the Bocatín de Calamares con ali oli (calamari sandwich with garlic mayonnaise). It’s certainly different and days later I’m still trying to work out if I did or didn’t like it! Bizarre but a local tradition and favourite. What I’m 100% sure I liked was the Croquetas Caseras de Jamón (Homemade Iberian Ham Croquettes). They were the lightest and fluffiest croquettes I’ve tasted in all of Spain. The service is very good, we really enjoyed the food and just soaking up the atmosphere.

Highly recommended for a bar stop or booking days in advance if you want a table in the restaurant. 200 years of customers can’t be wrong!

Taberna Del Sur
Calle Torrecilla Del Leal, 12

Last but certainly not least is this gem we found wandering the south side of Calle de Atocha.

This corner restaurant offers flavoursome and authentic Spanish food – the paella, chiperones and Mediterranean salad was fantastic. I’m not even going to mention how good the caramel sponge was!

Madrid in 72 hours Worldwind features — Jhoan waving us goodbye!

Great value and really good portion sizes for sharing. A real mix of clients between locals and tourists all enjoying themselves whether sitting at the bar or a table.

Jhoan runs the place and is as charismatic as you can get. This really rubs off on his staff who are all eager to help. The service really stands out.

A great recommendation when wandering south of Calle de Atocha.

Must see places in Madrid

Mercado de San Miguel
Plaza de San Miguel

This place is fantastic and absolutely crammed all day. It was first opened in 1916 as a local food market. Moving forward to 2009 the Mercado de San Miguel was born, it was the city’s first gourmet market housed in what is one of Madrids finest examples of cast-iron architecture located right next to Plaza Mayor. Welcoming over 10 million visitors a year it showcases Spain’s culinary culture from the Galician coast seafood to traditional tapas, paella, pintxos, meat, fruit, vegetables, cakes and a seemingly endless supply of cheese.

We visited several times for a drink and tapas. Great to sit and watch the world go by, if you can get a seat! A visit is really recommended.

Plaza Mayor
Calle Gerona 4

A very large and impressive plaza that is more like a large courtyard completely surrounded by stunning and architecturally pleasing buildings. The perimeter is lined with cafés and shops, even stamp and coin collectors shops. It’s certainly worth a visit although I still can’t get my head round the people dressed up as bears, gorillas or Super Mario characters in such a prestigious venue.

Parque del Retiro
Plaza Della Indipendecia 7

A stunningly beautiful park! We went just after 0900 on a clear blue sky day. Peaceful and beautiful, not too busy with loads of space as it is enormous. The areas with fountains, statues and buildings are more populated but otherwise it is quiet parkland with something for everyone. Lots of shade to get you out of the sun. Plenty of people hire a boat on the small lake in front of the impressive Alfonso VII monument, there are also numerous places to buy food and drink although some don’t open until 1030. Perfect for a relaxing stroll in nature or more energetic exercise such as tennis or a run. It’s a place you can make your own and lose enjoyable hours in nature but in the heart of the city.

Palacio Real
Centro, 28071

All that can be said is it’s simply stunning especially in the sunshine, but so are the queues for entrance! The Royal Palace of Madrid is the official residence of the Spanish royal family in Madrid although now only used for state ceremonies. The palace is the largest in Europe, construction started in 1735 and it has 3418 rooms. If booking a visit I highly suggest you prebook on skip the line or Madrid Speedy Pass. The Catedral de Santa Maria la Real de la Almunena sits opposite the Palacio Real, it is just as impressive and as busy.

Puerta del Sol
7, Centro, 28013

This impressive public square is one of the best known and busiest places in the city and thankfully now pedestrianised. This is the centre of the radial network of Spanish roads (see Kilometre Zero below). The square also houses the famous clock whose bells mark the traditional eating of the Twelve Grapes and the beginning of a new year.

The square also has a dark past. The old Post Office on the south side of the square was the Ministry of Interior and State Security Headquarters during the Francoist dictatorship between 1936 and 1975. The basement was infamous for being a place where those opposing the regime were taken and tortured with many disappearing and losing their lives.

Kilometre Zero
Puerta del Sol, 7, Centro, 28013

This is what the Madrileños call ground zero for all roads radiating out of Madrid. Essentially it’s another way of saying that the people of Madrid think of it as being the centre of the universe.

On a daily basis you see thousands of tourists take a photograph of the plaque then move on with life knowing they have stood in the centre of Spain.

Strange but true!

Whilst it is true that Spain was named after the rabbits that live there, the word derives from an ancient Phoenician word meaning “land of the rock hyrax” because the rabbits were mistaken for this native African species.

Madrid’s residents are also called “Gatos” (cats). This nickname dates back to medieval times when the city was conquered by Alfonso VI. To get over the city walls, the soldiers had to climb like cats and since then have been given this name.

Adios Madrid

As we pack up (well I do) to leave this great city it was only 72 hours and yes there is far more to see and visit if your stay is longer. We certainly crammed a lot into our trip, the weather, sites, food and company in Madrid was excellent. So were the people, from the CoolRooms staff, to Oliver at the Ritz and Andi in Casa Verona, people we had never met until we arrived in this great city. They not only did their job, they made you feel very welcome to their city. A very warming change from some of the anti-tourism demonstrations and ill feeling towards foreigners manifesting itself across Spain and parts of the European Union.

Thanks must also go to Suzanne, Richard, Pamela and Bill for their excellent company. Let’s see where we land on our next trip. I’m already looking forward to it!

Fortunate Footnote:

On our return journey to Glasgow from Lanzarote and 15 days later we flew back via Madrid Barajas Airport. On checking with the Lost Luggage desk, which seemed to have an endless queue, there was a glimmer of hope. After checking the three missing luggage reference numbers the young girl at the desk suggested we join her and take a look in the lost luggage store. Bizarrely on the first row from the door was Julie’s suitcase with all identification labels attached along with the original missing luggage report number also attached. There were a few tears and I’m not sure the young girl knew what to do, it was a huge relief!

To be honest I’m speechless as to how staff at British Airways, Iberia or Madrid Barajas Airport could not triangulate, work together and return the missing suitcase. If we had not returned to Madrid and persevered at the Lost Luggage desk the suitcase would never have been returned.

I just wonder what will happen to all the other luggage in the store room?