Black Swans & RoguesCulture explore the beauty of disruption — showing how chaos can lead to clarity and how reflection can replace reaction. In a world where travel, technology, and culture intersect in unpredictable ways, it’s easy to mistake uncertainty for decline. But sometimes, it’s precisely within disorder that we rediscover who we are.
Across the world, we see this pattern: cities reshaping after crises, destinations redefining their identity, and people rethinking what it means to live well. The unpredictable — the “Black Swan” moments — often reveal more profound truths. They challenge us to slow down, to see the connections hidden beneath the noise, and to appreciate the resilience of human creativity.
When outrage fades, understanding begins. The same holds true in travel and in life. Every disruption — whether a cultural shift, an environmental wake-up call, or a personal turning point — invites us to reflect. It pushes us to move beyond reaction and toward awareness.
This is what RoguesCulture calls “Reflective Rebellion”: the courage to stay human, to stay curious, and to keep seeking wisdom even when the world feels unsteady.
Travel, after all, is not just about movement. It’s about transformation. Each journey — like each Black Swan — has the power to shift our perspective and open us to the unexpected beauty of change.
This Podcast pairs the cinematic lift of Washington Black with on-island heritage you can actually visit: sugar mills, plantation boiling houses, Bridgetown & its Garrison (UNESCO), the Jewish Synagogue & Museum, St. Nicholas Abbey & Heritage Railway, Speightstown, and more.
We place the film’s balloon beside the real history of the dreaded boiling house andslavery> It explains how Barbados became Britain’s first slave society and how its legacy shaped the wider Atlantic world—reaching all the way to Halifax, Nova Scotia. It explores the impact of Bajans in Canada. Outstanding Barbadians shine in Canadian politics, sports and culture.
This is your guide to grounding movie myth in authentic places, true history, and heritage.
Washington Black Barbados History: Fantasy and Reality
When readers and viewers encounter Washington Black, they step into a breathtaking work of fiction where a boy floats away from the cane fields of Barbados in a hot-air balloon, bound for the frozen coasts of Nova Scotia. It is a dramatic escape, rich with imagination and symbolic power. Yet beneath the magic lies something even more compelling: the true story of Barbados, the island that became Britain’s first slave society and a crucible for the system that spread across the Caribbean.
Barbados is often described as paradise — palm-fringed beaches, warm seas, and endless sunshine. But for centuries, it was also a place of unimaginable hardship, where enslaved Africans labored under the harshest plantation system in the British Empire. This duality makes it the perfect setting for both fantasy and reality. Yaa Gyasi’s novel draws on that heritage, reminding us that behind the adventures of Wash lies a real legacy of survival, creativity, and cultural pride.
The Fiction and the Truth
In Washington Black, the story is propelled by invention — airships, Arctic voyages, and daring escapes. But in the real world, Barbados produced its own rogues, rebels, and visionaries who challenged authority, carved out freedom, and built a culture that still thrives today. This is the world captured in Rogues in Paradise, which peels back the layers of paradise to reveal the people — ordinary and extraordinary — who shaped its story.
Connecting the Dots: Barbados and Halifax
The connection to Halifax, Canada, is no coincidence. History links the Caribbean and the Maritimes in unexpected ways. Halifax merchants profited from sugar and rum, just as Barbados relied on northern ports for supplies. Later, Halifax became a haven for Black Loyalists and freedom seekers. The fictional journey of Washington Black echoes the very real migrations and struggles that tied these two Atlantic worlds together.
From Book to Disney Movie and RoguesInParadise
On the Barbados.org blog, a companion piece titled “Washington Black: Fiction Rooted in History of Barbados” explores these links in detail. It shows how fiction opens a door into history, while history itself provides the deeper truth. And on Rogues in Paradise, those truths are told through the voices of rogues, heroes, and everyday people whose resilience defines Barbados’ identity today.
Why It Matters
For anyone intrigued by Washington Black — whether drawn to its imagined drama or its historical underpinnings — these stories matter. They remind us that the Caribbean is not just a backdrop for fiction but a living, breathing landscape of memory. To read about Barbados’ history is to confront the legacy of empire, the scars of slavery, and the ongoing power of cultural survival.
So dive into the full article on Barbados.org, then continue the journey through Rogues in Paradise.The fiction may lift you into the sky, but the truth will ground you in the remarkable story of a small island with a giant legacy.
Barbados Unsweetened Sugar Past – filled with Molten Memories:
This is a short trailer of the RoguesCulture POCAST#2 of MoltenMemories – See all here >>>
Barbados’ sugar industry began in the 1640s, when the Dutch introduced sugarcane to the island’s fertile land. What followed was a boom that made Barbados Britain’s wealthiest colony, powered by the labor of enslaved Africans working under brutal and dehumanizing conditions.
The video Molten Memories takes us inside this history of Barbados Unsweetened Sugar Past—not with filters, but with fire. It explores the dangerous world of sugar production, where cast iron kettles boiled molasses and risked lives, and where the echoes of pain still linger. Yet, it also honors the resilience of those who, despite the cruelty, preserved cultural traditions and skills that live on today.
As the sugar industry declined in the late 19th century—challenged by the abolition of slavery and the rise of beet sugar in Europe—Barbados began a long journey of reflection.
This hybrid podcast episode doesn’t just tell a story—it immerses viewers in it, using sound, animation, and narrative to bring the past to life. In doing so, it helps shape a future that honors both the suffering and the strength of those who came before. Uncover the hidden history of Barbados’ sugar empire with the riveting Rogues Culture Podcast of Barbados unsweetened sugar past. Check out Molten Memorieson slavery, survival, and strength in a stunning hybrid Podcast experience.
Thailand – Where the People Smile is the perfect fit for this Travelogue, where we visit Bangkok, Phuket, Phi Phi Island & Krabi
SThailand National Flag, James Bond Island & Loh Ba Gao Beach, Phi Phi Islandcreenshot
It’s no secret that Thailand is one of the world’s ultimate destinations for affordable beach holidays. It’s also just been announced as Number 3 in the Countries category of the Conde Nast Traveller Readers’ Choice 2024 Awards.
Never having visited the country the reviews of the beaches, weather and attractions are what encouraged us to visit and escape Scotland’s cold and wet winter. It’s also a country that sticks in my mind from my childhood. At Halloween a girl who lived nearby dressed as Miss Thailand, wearing a dress adorned with men’s neck ties! It made me laugh then and has kept Thailand in my mind.
Our itinerary included flying into Bangkok from Glasgow via Dubai with Emirates. Spending a short time in the city then flying into Phuket, before taking a ferry across the Andaman Sea to the island of Ko Phi Phi which is a small archipelago of six islands and promoted as one of the most beautiful yet easily accessible island groups in the world. Leaving Ko Phi Phi we then take another ferry to Krabi for a longer, chilled beach and town stay. We finish off by heading back to Bangkok for a couple of days before return flights to Glasgow.
According to our research a Phuket and Krabi itinerary is one of the best choices for travelling in Thailand mainly due to the affordable prices, amazing beaches, impressive choice of hotels and relatively easy international travel access.
Let’s not forget also that Thailand wide there is a huge range of activities and things to do that will keep all the family entertained whether you’re looking for a relaxing beach trip like us or an action-packed adventure.
A Phuket, Ko Phi Phi and Krabi trip can be planned in any order although it’s easier if Ko Phi Phi is in the middle leg. No matter where you arrive in the country this itinerary is easily adaptable to suit your plans or aspirations.
Some other reviews debate how long to best spend in Thailand and in each resort. The most popular suggestion seems to be 6 days each in Phuket and Krabi with two days on Ko Phi Phi sandwiched inbetween. That’s 14 days in total and very do-able. Having read fantastic reviews about Ko Phi Phi Island and deciding to spend a bit more time there we booked up a 24 day trip, although two days are dedicated to travelling to and from Bangkok.
Off we go! Days 1-2 – Bangkok
We arrived in Bangkok at Suvarnabhumi airport after travelling nearly 16 hours on two separate flights. Body clock slightly confused and taking time to adjust to the 30 plus degrees temperature and a wall of humidity. A real contrast from stepping out the car at Glasgow Airport where the temperature was in low single figures.
As per the Emirates booking our transport was ready and waiting and we were whisked away within minutes of meeting our driver.
Bangkok
Officially known as Krung Thep Maha Nakhon although locals also call it Krung Thep. Thailand’s capital city with a population of over 9 million people in the city itself with some near 18 million people living within the Bangkok Metropolitan Region. The Chao Phraya River flows through the centre of Bangkok and is the major river in Thailand, eventually reaching the Gulf of Thailand.
Akara Hotel 372 Thanon Si Ayutthaya, Khwaeng Thanon Phaya Thai, Kherson Ratchathewi
The Akara Hotel was our first stop, it’s certainly a favourite among guests with its East meets West theme where the classics seamlessly fuse with the modern. The location only 24 kilometres from the airport is perfect with 26 local attractions within 500 metres of the hotel and a staggering 76 restaurants within a similar distance. It hosts a wide range of amenities, including a rooftop pool which was perfect to relax in after days wandering this fabulous city.
In checking in we had to sign a declaration we would not smoke cannabis in our room and on checking out the reception staff instructed a physical inspection of our room. Bizarre but I suppose they may get undesirable guests.
ICONSIAM 299, Soi Charoen Nakhon 5, Charoen Nakhon Road
There are over 7,000 shops in this10-storey shopping and entertainment centre, sitting pretty across the renowned Chao Phraya River. ICONSIAM has something for everybody and every budget. Within the vast complex is SOOKSIAM, a themed zone fitted with an indoor floating market where you can find unusual gifts like herbal body care, handwoven textiles and aromatherapy products. In addition to the shopping and dining options, art lovers can also appreciate the art-in-mall journey, with stellar works by over 100 Thai and international artists.
Bangkok skyline taken from the Fallabella Rooftop bar
The rooftop bars at the centre become a spectacular experience at dusk and are certainly not to be missed. We stopped at Fallabella’s impressive outside bar for a cold drink just before sunset. Within an hour we were staring out at the city’s stunning skyline with the skyscraper lights twinkling away. You could spend hours gazing out across the city and sipping on a cool drink.
The water features throughout the complex are magnificent but those next to the harbour impressively match the music. Great to watch and provide entertainment when waiting on your ferry back across the Chao Phraya River. The very short water taxi shuttle from Sathorn Pier gets you to ICONSIAM for the bizarrely minimal sum of 8 THB (about 20 pence UK).
MBK (Ma Boon Khrong Centre)
444, Phayathai Road
This vast seven floor shopping mall is one of Bangkok’s most popular. Avid shoppers and bargain hunters can take hours to wander their way through the hundreds of small shops selling clothing, electronics, souvenirs, cosmetics, and really anything you’re might be looking for plus more. With the sales people regularly referring to their ‘secret rooms’ behind the shop front, many people visit the mall for those trading in replica clothing and accessories.
There is also a food court and many food outlets on each floor, the mall directory makes your choices clear. For ease of travel the MBK Center is located near the Bangkok Art and Culture Center and also the National Stadium with both having easy access to the BTS Skytrain Stations.
Bangkok Canal Tour: 2-Hour Longtail Boat Ride
Wat Paknam Phasi Charoen & a local Water Monitor
This was recommended to us and what an experience it was. Joe our host was attentive from the start. He took nine of us on a canal tour which opened our eyes to a side of Bangkok that most travellers don’t get to see. Once we crossed the choppy Chao Phraya River and sped into the canals it was flat calm. Gently cruising along the city’s canal ways was great although when passing another boat or when the Captain accelerated his longtail boat it can be choppy but certainly not rough. The longtail boat tour opens up what local life in the Thonburi district of Bangkok is all about. We even managed to buy a beer from a passing salesman in another small kayak type boat laden with goods for sale. Amongst the array of river houses and stunning temples there was a real eye opener – the size of the lizard type animals called Water Monitors was scary! The large ones were huge and well over two metres long. Just lying snoozing on the canal banks. They are one of the most common monitor lizards found throughout Asia, living in areas close to water. Joe assured us they would disappear fast if we approached them.
Thankfully we didn’t go anywhere near them. According to Joe they are lazy and allegedly wait on their next feed swimming by rather than hunt for it. I must say if one of the large ones came near me I’d be off like a shot!
This impressive trip was just over two hours on the water with a fascinating stop to visit Baan Silapin (The Artist’s House) and Wat Paknam Phasi Charoen (Buddhist Temple). Life here is simple and sedate in contrast to that a short trip across the Chao Phraya River where it’s frantic and chaotic! Our day was fascinating and steamy hot at 38 degrees with high humidity but was worth it.
The nine Bangkok canals are primarily flood drainage conduits. In years gone by the Thai capital was criss-crossed by khlongs and so gained the nickname “Venice of the East”.
Highly recommended.
Chinatown – Bangkok
Claims to be one of the largest Chinatowns in the world, with the area renowned for vast shopping options and tantalising cuisine. For over 200 years it has been the main hub for the massive Chinese community in Bangkok. Yaowarat Road is bustling with activity and thousands of shops offering every kind of souvenir, jewellery, and anything else you can possibly think of. After what seemed like hours of walking around mesmerised by the size and the number of stalls we stopped at a family run bar/restaurant, Shanghai Moon which was compact, exceptionally clean and a perfect spot to sit and watch the world go by.
Shanghai Moon 25 Plaeng Nam Rd, Samphanthawong
Shanghi Moon Bar, Chinatown, Bangkok
Our waitress, Chees was great and even took a call in the local dialect when she realised our taxi was struggling to find us. Great service, cool drinks and watching locals and tourists alike was an education in itself. Chinatown is worth a visit but don’t spend too long walking the alleyways as they go on for what seems like forever.
After leaving Chinatown we headed back towards the vicinity of the hotel and looking for authentic Thai food we stumbled upon Ban Khun Mae in the MBK Centre.
The name means ‘mum’s house’ in Thai and it has been a successful restaurant since 1998. Our food was delicious and the service spot on. A really good place to sample some good honest Thai food served as usual with a huge smile.
Day 3
After a couple of cold drinks on the Akara Roof Terrace and a very comfortable night’s sleep we’re heading back to the airport for a Thai Airways internal flight to Phuket. Having been forewarned about how busy the airport is we leave ourselves plenty of time however the whole process was very efficient and possibly one of the easiest airport check-ins and security we’ve done. I was expecting chaotic scenes, I shouldn’t have worried!
Our destination was Kata and the area is all about family fun whether in the seafront restaurants and bars, of which there are many, or the lively atmosphere on Kata Beach. A 1.5km strip of golden sand considered one of the most popular beaches in Phuket due to its combination of beauty, facilities and activities. From early evening there is a buzzing Night Market along with a nightlife scene that’s vibrant, but not rowdy.
Aurico Kata Resort 45 Taina Road, Karon Beach, Karon
The impressive Aurico reception
The hotel is around an hour’s drive from Phuket Airport. After only a few minutes wait in the arrivals hall our courtesy car driver arrived as planned.
We found this hotel a clean and comfortable place to stay. Actually a great option for families if you’re in Kata or Karon. We stayed for 5 nights but it seemed most of the other guests were shorter term stays. The hotel appeared virtually full but surprisingly there were no more than about 15 people in and around the pool at any one time, so getting a lounger by the pool was never a problem. Swim-up pool bar tender, Chet worked tirelessly and always had a huge smile. He even managed to play music by a famous Scottish DJ. Well done Chet!
This was a really relaxing and enjoyable stay which is exactly what we needed after the hustle and bustle of Bangkok and our long journey from Gourock.
The hotel is a short walk from Kata Night Market and close by to pretty much everything, yet it’s very quiet both at night and during the day.
Recommended if you want to dip in and out of the Kata buzz!
The Boat House
182 Koktanode Road, Kata Beach, Karon
We booked this restaurant while doing some pre-trip research. On arrival it became clear it was also an up market hotel and looked absolutely perfect, perched just above the beach with a view the full length of Kata Beach. It happened to be the last full moon (Badger Moon) of 2024 so we were fortunate to enjoy a fire show and 60 plus Chinese lanterns floating off into the night sky from the beach.
Admittedly the service could have been slightly quicker at the start of the meal but sitting looking out at the view even in the darkness was very calming. Our food was delicious with special mention for the Yam Nuea, a seared Australian beef salad with Thai herbs and a spicy dressing which we shared. Absolutely mouth-watering.
I didn’t think it was going to get any better until my Phad Med was placed in front of me. A Thai dish of stir- fried chicken with cashew nuts, onion and red bell pepper. Again fantastic! After a short break I had a scoop of homemade coconut ice cream. Very soothing and cooling.
What a lovely night and although expensive in terms of Phuket restaurants it’s certainly worth it for views, food and location.
A highly recommended restaurant.
Khao Phing Kan (James Bond Island) by One Asia Corporation
Khao Phing Kan is located in Phang Nga Bay on the northeast side of Phuket island. It is one of the most iconic landmarks in Thailand being used as the backdrop to the film ‘The Man with the Golden Gun’, a classic James Bond movie (1974).
Simply stunning but so humid – James Bond Island and the view to sea
The half day itinerary was a feast for the eyes, a day of excellent sightseeing, exploration, and breathtaking moments in stunning landscapes. We set sail at a very leisurely pace from Ao Por Pier with the music of Coldplay and Ed Sheeran amongst many others setting a chilled tone as we crossed Phang Nga Bay.
I felt like the Man with the Golden Ticket never mind Gun when we first laid eyes on the location. It was even better when we stepped onto the island and took the opportunity to wander round. We even managed to acquire a replica Golden Gun for a photograph!
After return transfer by long tail boat we set sail for Hong Island for a canoeing experience where expert guides (locals) paddled us through the hidden caves and lagoons, revealing the secrets of this wonderful location.
The scenery was impressive from the heart shaped sky outline in one of the lagoons to the almost life like rock formations. Our guide knew his stuff but unfortunately it was a very low tide so access to most of the caves was impossible. A really interesting and eye opening 25 minutes. I even got a shot at paddling myself but fighting against the currents was more difficult than it looked!
All good things come to an end and as Captain Wichian cruised us back to Ao Por Pier we enjoyed a tasty dinner and drinks. Gazing at the picture perfect views while witnessing the sunset and later an impressive electric storm on the horizon.
The tour we booked included hotel transfers although it should be noted that some hotels are outwith the designated pickup points.
A great day out, all you need is your camera, sunglasses and sunscreen.
As I said from the start, highly recommended.
Day 8
We check-out of the Aurico Hotel and head to the port for a ferry crossing to Koh Phi Phi island.
A 30 minute taxi journey takes us to Rassada Harbour in plenty of time.
Koh Phi Phi Island
Saii Phi Phi Island Village Beach – Loh Ba Gao Bay
The Phi Phi Islands sit between Phuket and the Malacca Straits. Koh Phi Phi Don is the largest and most populated island of the group of six. Some of the other islands are nothing more than large limestone rocks jutting out of the sea. We travelled on a large passenger ferry called Phi Phi Rose (other options such as speedboat and longtail boat are available) with the journey, which was pretty smooth, just under two hours long. On arrival in Tonsai Pier I was delighted that our ferry trip had been comfortable and not rough. However, I relaxed too soon ….
Access to our hotel, SAii Phi Phi Island Village is only by boat, transport from the pier was pre-booked by long-tail boat.
Our 30 minute long-tail boat transfer was very choppy and we ended up absolutely drenched. The experience wasn’t helped by an older lady yelping with fear in the seat behind me. When we arrived at the resort we sat in our long-tail boat for another twenty minutes waiting on a very small tender to take us to the hotel reception. The sight of the boatman bailing water out from the tender as he approached did nothing to instill confidence in us or our travel companions!
With both boats bobbing about, transfer from one to the other was quite a challenge and resulted in the same older lady virtually freezing in panic mid-way with a leg in each boat! Concerning to watch and a lot of coaxing to keep her calm and regain her confidence to continue. Well done Julie for a lot of hand holding and reassuring noises, even the locals were smiling and thanking you.
After a very short journey in the tender boat we reached the shallows where we were told to get off and paddle the remaining distance to reception. Admittedly the water was only knee deep but still the most bizarre hotel check-in I have ever had in my life. Thankfully we had travelled in shorts and flipflops!
SAii Phi Phi Island Village 49 Moo 8, Ao Nang, Ko Phi Phi Don 81000
We booked this resort having read the description of ‘a dream-like boutique resort situated on a private 800 metre stretch of pristine white sand beach lapped by the turquoise waters of the Andaman Sea.’
And it sure is beautiful, set within coconut palm plantations, in the privacy of Loh Ba Gao Bay it was a welcome contrast to the busy locations of Kata and Tonsai.
The hotel has 189 traditional Thai style bungalows and 12 exclusively private hillside pool villas. On our first morning we were wakened at 0800 by the Thai National Anthem being played loudly from speakers across the complex. Turns out this is a weekly test of the Tsunami warning system. Good wake up call!
After a morning spent at the adult pool we made the short venture out of the hotel grounds and into the nearby village. Bit of a culture shock but with several shops, bars, restaurants etc it was very chilled. Sand based pathways are used by pedestrians, bicycles and mopeds alike. Poverty is clear to see, tourism and fishing being the main income producers, however the locals seem very happy and readily smile and welcome you in their usual Thai respectful way.
Oasis Bar & Restaurant
After a cold Chang Beer we ordered a lunch of local spring rolls and chilli paste rice with fried egg. It was absolutely delicious and enough to share between two. Sitting watching the locals go about their daily business was entertaining.
We ventured to the village again in the evening and headed for Pad Thai restaurant which seemed to enjoy first class reviews.
Pad Thai Restaurant
The ‘Show’ Kitchen at Pad Thai
This restaurant was basically 50 metres behind our beach bungalow but you would never know when in the hotel grounds.
We were greeted by Yok who was leading on front of house. A large bottle of water, a Sang Som rum and a glass of red wine came quickly. As did our starter of tempura vegetables with chilli dip. Simple but delicious! Then came our mains of fried shrimp with cashew nut and vegetables and green curry with shrimp. They were fabulous and cooked in front of us at the open kitchen. Amazing flavours and a very local setting.
I highly recommend this restaurant and did to several other hotel guests. Thank you to Yok and staff for what was probably our best meal so far on this trip.
Pad Thai staff please take a bow, as they say in Thai ‘aroy mak’ (very delicious).
Pad Thai was so good we returned on our last evening and had another outstanding meal of tempura shrimp, seabass cooked with hot peppers and onion along with pineapple filled with vegetable fried rice. Again delicious!
Back to SAii Phi Phi Village which hosts several restaurants and bars and a great coffee shop selling exceptional rum & raisin ice cream. As it’s a beach resort there is always a breeze which is welcome amongst the heat and humidity.
My only criticism is the lack of sun loungers at the pools and beach. Considering the size of the hotel and number of guests they were lacking. Also, the staff in the main restaurant, API could be more efficient especially in the evening. The service at breakfast was absolutely fine.
Day 13
On being checked out of our Phi Phi Island beach bungalow by reception staff Frang and Miw we went through the usual, we will check your room before you leave scenario. This happens to everyone but it still takes me a bit of getting used to!
Slightly disappointed at leaving such a stunning island we waited in trepidation for our next boat trip, a speed boat from Phi Phi Island to Krabi. Just before our scheduled departure time of 1330 we were guided to a small tender on the shore to take us to the speed boat. Thankfully the tide was high so very little wading was required this time. Not the largest speed boat we had ever seen but still very powerful engines sat loud and proud on the stern. All aboard and after a quick stop at the next beach for some other passengers off we set off on our trip to Krabi. Even with fairly calm sea conditions it was a bit of a bouncy trip but after 45 minutes of bumps and slight sway we slowed and headed into the calm waters of Krabi Pie.
We met our taxi transfer and 35 minutes later we were being checked in to the Varana Hotel where we were made very welcome by receptionist, June.
Varana Krabi Hotel 258, Tambon Nong Talay, Mueang Krabi District
The hotel name derives from a combination of the Thai words of Vana – forest, Nava – water, and Nara – people. It also boasts a philosophy of ‘Wellness is Happiness’.
This minimalist luxury hotel overlooking the Andaman Sea lives up to its image and delivers a complete wellcation experience, with natural healing therapies, top chef prepared food, diverse sports facilities and an onsite spa.
Boasting 141 rooms across six buildings, including spa suites, pool access suites, and various horizon and luxury room types.
Our long stay king suite overlooked the Olympic sized swimming pool (Derek Lockie would suit you) with further views towards the coast. The whole complex just breathes wellness and is so chilled.
The Varana 50 metre swimming pool day & nightreenshot
It has everything for fitness fanatics with a large, well equipped gym and multiple classes running throughout the day ranging from paddle fit, water polo, Mauy Thai boxing to Hyrox.
Breakfasts are tremendous with virtually anything you would wish for available. The selection of natural juices was quite an eye opener with new flavours for us such as Butterfly Pea and Rosella. Both natural drinks have good health benefits and are similar in colour and taste.
After a cool drink and several lengths of the pool we headed to the swim up bar, Sip to take advantage of happy hour and plan our evening meal. The charismatic bar staff Chok, Bas & Reem were real entertainers, and charmers with the Aussie girls!
After watching an impressive electric storm on the coast opposite the hotel we walked through the extensive grounds and were drawn to a lovely set of just six tables set for dinner next to one of the smaller pools and under trees with stunning snowdrop lighting. Nook was the name of the restaurant where we enjoyed a fabulous shared starter called Mii Grop in Thai. Crispy Thai noodles with crab, garlic chives, soy beans and mandarin.
Followed by mains of Tom Yum Goong, a scrumptious hot spicy and sour prawn soup with galangal, lemongrass, and kaffir lime leaves and a spicy pork stir fry with organic red basil leaves. A shared steamed jasmine rice soaked up the delicious juices of both plates.
Yet again too full to order a sweet we headed off for an early night after our successful day of travel across the Andaman Sea.
The impressive Nook Restaurant & Varana Beach Club
After a day spent by the pool we popped into the Hotel Beach Club which is directly opposite on Klong Muang Beach. Sipping a Pina Colada and a Mai Tai cocktail at dusk was very chilling, we then moved on just along the road for our evening meal at:
Mom’s Bar & Restaurant
Ko Twang, Klong Muang Beach, Nong Thale
moms Restaurant and Bar
This restaurant was found following some local research and we were intrigued by the fabulous 5 star reviews. Arriving about 1930 all tables were taken apart from one at the very front. It gave us the perfect opportunity to people watch and take in the local shops and restaurants nearby. With a happy hour extending until 2100 bar prices were incredibly cheap with a large Chang beer at 100 baht (£2.20) and similar prices for cocktails. Being able to see the kitchen staff working away but not under any pressure it became clear that orders were slow but at least you knew it was not going to be slap dash and freshly prepared. An order of Tom Yum Goong with mildly spiced shrimp, deep fried fish and spicy salad with mango & cashew nuts along with steamed rice arrived. As per other diner reviews it was absolutely delicious and served with a friendly smile.
A recommended restaurant where the people are lovely, the cost is unbelievably cheap and the food delicious! The 5 star reviews are spot on and a restaurant we would revisit.
Reeve Beach Club 31/1 Moo 2, Ao Nang
This was booked as my birthday treat. It was twenty minutes from our hotel so we tried unsuccessfully to order a taxi and ended up being driven in an open air tuk tuk. After travelling on main roads at various speeds and trying to dodge bumps, dust, fumes and speeding cars we arrived windswept and dishevelled!
The venue looked small from the roadside but that’s deceiving as it’s quite extensive once you walk through the doors. A prime beachfront club/restaurant claiming to be first in its class. It certainly sits on one of the best corners of Ao Nang beach. Serves multiple cuisines, including vegan. Also has a great atmosphere created by a DJ, spectacular twice daily fire shows and one of the most extensive beach cocktail menus I’ve seen on this trip.
Within seconds of taking my seat I was serenaded by four staff members singing ‘Happy Birthday’ and presenting me with a very nice chilled bottle of fizz with a note attached from Maxie, my granddaughter! The lovely message may have brought tears to my eyes but I’m blaming the road grit from the tuk tuk journey!
After a delicious starter of seafood spring rolls we had tasty main courses and finished just in time for what was a spectacular fire show on the beach directly in front of our table. Lasting about 20 minutes it even became interactive as the boys entered the restaurant with flaming torches and engaged with customers. They concluded with a round of ‘Happy Birthday’ and the letters ‘HBD’ set alight on the beach adjacent to a similarly lit sign with the ‘Reeve’ name. Against the dark skies and beach it was an appropriate grand finale.
The Reeve Fire Showeensht
After the show we shared a delicious dessert of mango sticky rice and ice cream before a cocktail to finish off our night.
Thankfully a small songthaew pronounced (sin. t’éw) was waiting at the adjacent taxi rank. This is an upgraded version of a tuk tuk with a roof and windows, adapted from a pick-up fitted with benches.
A great experience, in parts unexpected but we went with it and can only say it was a memorable evening. Reeve is certainly recommended for a great food, drinks and entertainment.
Krabi: Tiger Cave Temple, Emerald Pool and Hot Springs Tour
After a very early start we headed into Ao Nang to meet up with our trip guide, Por. From the outset Por was great with regular updates, some even before we met her! We made three quick stops to pick up other guests and after an hour drive from Ao Nang our first stop was at the stunning Emerald Pool. Found in the middle of a lush green forest we swam in the clear blue-green waters of the mineral pool. Thankfully Por got us to the Emerald Pool before hundreds of others started arriving from mid-morning. So the early start was very worthwhile.
The Emerald Pool, Blue Lagoon & Hot Springs
A short walk then took us to the impressive Blue Lagoon. Very picturesque with huge overhanging trees and roots extending across the lagoon. The path was a bit muddy as we got close to the lagoon, but worth a visit and a photo opportunity.
After an hour or so we headed to Ruean Morakot a local restaurant for a very nice buffet style lunch. Given the vast quantities on offer and the number of empty tables Por’s timing ensured we were again ahead of the masses. Once lunch was over, our next stop was to take some time to relax at the Hot Springs Waterfall. It felt incredibly healing, sitting soothing as the naturally warm water swirled about us.
The hot water comes from underground volcanic chambers and is always at an unbelievable temperature of 35 to 42 degrees celsius. It’s claimed the water has many minerals which are good for the skin and also give relief to cases such as rheumatic complaints.
Our last stop for the day was Wat Tham Seua, the majestic Tiger Cave Temple.
Tiger Cave Temple & the Buddha statues at the summit of the 1260 step
To get to the mountaintop temple involved 1260 exceptionally steep stairs with narrow treads and very high, uneven risers which in the heat and humidity made for a very strenuous climb. Thankfully we took notice of the advice not to take the stair challenge in flip flops so training shoes certainly helped us out!
Numerous people gave up at various points on the ascent but for those lucky enough to make it to the top there was an uncanny bond. No matter what language, religion or background you came from strangers were giving you high five’s and fist pumps or even just a huge smile of acknowledgment, human respect at its best!
At the summit the Buddha statue gleams in the daylight and the tiger prints are intriguing. Also take time to appreciate the views but avoid the many monkeys. We witnessed a person being bitten and monkeys bullying people into dropping snacks or drinks. Don’t be fair game for the monkeys next meal!
A very exhausting but great way to finish our day trip.
Thanks to Por a wonderful and highly recommended trip and to our wonderful driver who even dropped us off at our hotel despite it being outside the pickup zone.
After a refreshing shower we wandered slowly along from the Varana hotel stretching our legs. We found a great little Italian restaurant with tables right on the beach.
Sipping a cold Chang beer we ordered a Gina salad, Italian sausage pizza and Penne Arrabiata which was authentic and delicious.
The staff were really helpful. They even moved us from the water’s edge as the tide was coming in!
Lovely romantic setting and the perfect end to an exhausting but very enjoyable day, Gina’s is recommended.
Day 21
A 0700 checkout from the Varana hotel and once again we were asked to wait until our room had passed an inspection. This now makes me laugh and question whether I look irresponsible, but hold on it’s done for everyone.
The Varana hotel itself is incredible, it’s a stunning architectural layout, designed to make you feel you’re in the jungle which basically surrounds the rear of the hotel.
The sports facilities are above and beyond anything I’ve experienced even in my youthful days of sporting prowess. Water skiing, paddle boarding, rock climbing, hyrox classes and a challenging obstacle course are amongst the various options available. Seeing the water skiing in the 50 metre pool was impressive, there is also a one kilometre track around the perimeter of the complex for those brave enough to run in the humidity.
I also can’t forget to mention the kind and respectful hotel staff. I could name numerous who went out of their way for guests. The excellent housekeeping staff who made a ‘cake’ out of flowers on the bed for my birthday, along with the pool staff who were incredibly patient with guests learning to swim, dive or use the paddle boards. The pool bar staff certainly had the best job and we really enjoyed our daily chats with Ras. He reminded me of a cheeky school boy, always respectful and wanting to know what you had done during the day while he pushed you for a drinks order. His stories of having to walk to the beach bar for certain drinks made us laugh as he would reappear with your order within minutes flashing his cheeky grin!
Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit 189 Sukhumvit Road Soi 13-15
As a final farewell to Bangkok we booked this fabulous centrally located hotel on the Sukhumvit area.
Research suggested it would be ideal for major shopping and entertainment venues as it’s a short walk to Asoke or Nana BTS (skytrain) and MRT Sukhumvit (subway) stations.
For relaxation it has an outdoor swimming pool and a 24-hour gym. Located 16 miles from Suvarnabhumi International Airport but with traffic congestion it can take up to an hour. The rooftop bar & brasserie, Belga offers stunning views across the city.
On being checked in by the ever pleasant Nok we found we were on the 29th floor with incredible views across the city. Our access to Club Millesime was well worth the extra cost. A quiet area for breakfast, afternoon tea and evening buffet with wine and cocktails certainly hit the spot. The service by Macky and his team was fantastic and they made the effort to get to know you.
The pool only gets sunshine from 1500 – 1700 but due to the intense heat that’s more than enough time. Pool staff regularly hand out sun screen and very welcome iced water. After a couple of mornings shopping it was the perfect spot to chill out and enjoy the happy hour!
Sitting on the roof top bar late in the evening was magical and the sparkling lights across the city brought it alive.
Sofitel Rooftop Bar
Night-time Bangkok Tuk Tuk Tour with Ms Nhong
Ms Nhong and Sanan our Tuk Tuk Pilot
As a parting shot at sightseeing in Bangkok we booked up this 4 hour private tour. Our tour guide Ms Nhong met us at our hotel along with our tuk tuk ‘pilot’ Sanan.
Ms Nhong spoke good English and Sanan obviously knew the roads well in what can only be described as traffic chaos! After a quick briefing and introduction Sanan got us on board and we headed off through shortcuts away from the main roads. Our concerns of being hurtled about the incredibly busy streets of Bangkok dissipated after we started to experience Sanan’s safe driving.
Throughout the trip Ms Nhong provided a great insight into the history of Thailand and more importantly Bangkok. Our first stop was a local food stall next to the Ruamkatanyu Foundation.
Street food vendor in action
We had freshly made pad thai with river prawns from a street vendor which was tasty but slightly sweet. Afterwards we had a quick tour of the Wat Hua Lumphong temple at the Ruamkatanyu Foundation. Ms Nhong briefed us on the social care mission of this charity and its important contribution to the local community.
Next stop was the impressive towering red entrance gate to Chinatown. A great photo opportunity in the midst of the busy streets.
The Entrance Gate to Chinatown
We stopped again further into Chinatown and walked several streets taking in the noise and excitement of hundreds of people eating, drinking and socialising in the many restaurants and bars. We walked past various street food vendors with menu options that opened your eyes from cooked scorpions and BBQ crocodile meat to some of the largest seafood catches I’ve seen in my life.
Scorpions, insects and BBQ Crocodile are favourites in Chinatown
We met up with Sanan again (how Ms Nhong found him in amongst the hundreds of Tuk Tuks I will never know) and moved on to the opulent Thai Grand Royal Palace and the very impressive Thai Ministry of Defence building.
Ms Nhong provided in depth information about the various Thai Kings, past and present, and the country’s history.
Next was a stop at a roof top bar, Amorosa with the best view of the Wat Arun Temple across the Chao Phraya River. Known as the Temple of Dawn and although an iconic Buddhist temple, the name comes from the Hindu God Aruna. Ms Nhong told us how King Taksin (1734–82) came across the temple early one morning in his search of where to establish a new capital of Thailand (Thonburi) and that this site then extended to become the Bangkok of today. The lights at this Temple at night are simply spectacular and dance into the dark sky.
The incredible Wat Arun Temple & a Chao Phraya River CruiseScreenshot
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We then moved onto Ratchadamnoen Avenue and the Democracy Monument. Ms Nhong explained that this historic road was specifically designed following a visit by the Thai King to the Champs-Élysées in Paris.
Our penultimate stop was at Khao San Road, a well known backpacker hub. The street is lined with bars and restaurants with guest rooms above. God only knows how they sleep as the street is chaotic, loud and brash. So saying the vast majority of people partying were all under 25, apart from those oldies in denial! As we got back in our Tuk Tuk we were glad to leave ‘Party Central’ to the younger generation but it was certainly worthwhile experiencing.
The live entertainment on Thanon Khao San
Another great photo opportunity was at the Golden Mount Temple and Mahakan Fort & Old City Wall. The walls were designed to protect the Grand Palace but have had gaps cut in them over the years to allow for the development of roadways in modern times.
The white Old City Walls, Mahakan Fort and Loha Prasat
We visited Wat Ratchanatdaram Worawihan (Loha Prasat) where the spectacular evening lights shimmer on the golden buildings. Ms Nhong explained that the iron roof made of 37 spires signify the 37 enlightenment virtues of Buddhism.
Our final stop was in front of Bangkok City Hall where the sign displays the Thai name for Bangkok. Officially the longest city name in the world it translates into a poem-like expression meaning ‘City of Angels’.
The full name is, “Krung Thep Mahanakhon Amon Rattanakosin Mahinthara Ayuthaya Mahadilok Phop Noppharat Ratchathani Burirom Udomratchaniwet Mahasathan Amon Piman Awatan Sathit Sakkathattiya Witsanukam Prasit.”
We will just stick to Bangkok!
We then headed back to our hotel after what was close to a 4 hour tuk tuk tour. Thanks to the effervescent Ms Nhong and our trusty driver Sanan who made our experience very interesting and at points eye opening. A highly recommended tour.
Travel, Transport & Communication
Throughout our trip internal travel was very easy ranging from trains, tuk tuks, songthaew, mini bus, speed boat, long tail boat, passenger ferry, tender boat and aircraft. Very reasonable prices for what is really a great standard. Just remember if you book a taxi it maybe a tuk tuk that appears unless you make it clear you wish a vehicle.
We were advised to download Grab which is an app similar to Uber. We used it a couple of times mainly in Bangkok but found that as soon as hotel porters knew you were about to book a taxi via Grab they stepped in and used their connections for a cheaper alternative and on one particular occasion more luxurious travel.
To be honest, apart from in Bangkok we didn’t have much success with Grab but certainly worth having for the city.
WiFi is easily accessible throughout the locations we visited with first class service at all hotels and most restaurants. By way of back up and not knowing how reliable the local WiFi would be we both bought e-sims from Airalo. Great asset and for £20 sterling each, it provided confidence on some of our more secluded trips such as the middle of the Andaman Sea. Would definitely use again.
Eight Useful Thai Language Phrases
Sawasdee: A greeting pronounce ‘say-wah-dee’ that means “hello”. Add “khrup” for men and “ka” for women. Khob khun: A common phrase that means “thank you”. Add “khrup” for men and ”ka” for women. Aroy: Meaning “delicious” or Aroy Mak: “very delicious” Chai: Single word meaning “yes”. Mai chai: Single word meaning ”no”. Kob kun mak: A phrase that means “thank you very much”. Sabai dee mai: A phrase asking “how are you?”. Sabai dee: A phrase saying “I’m fine”.
Frequently Asked Questions
When is the best time to visit Thailand?
The best time to visit this area of Thailand is the dry season, November through to April. Expect some rain and electrical storms but in general the weather is not too hot, perfect for beaches and trips. However, this is also peak season and like our experience in Phuket it can be crowded. September and May are classed as the shoulder seasons where it can be far less crowded and travel cheaper.
How long to spend in Phuket, Phi Phi Island or Krabi?
It really depends on what you’re looking for on your trip.
Our 5 nights in Kata Beach, Phuket was to be honest a bit of a shock. It’s very much a high buzz tourist resort as are neighbouring Karon Beach and Patong. If it had not been for the Aurico Hotel effectively acting as a quiet and relaxing oasis within Kata Beach I would have struggled with the Blackpool type feel of the main area. However that’s not to say we didn’t find amazing places to eat. Fine for a couple of days if you want to somewhere busier.
Recommended places?
Our journey to Phi Phi Island as described above was bizarre but what an island. Just stunning and so chilled. Venturing out for some of the best locally cooked Thai food at restaurant Pad Thai was just delicious. On leaving after only four nights I was somewhat disappointed and could easily have extended beyond what we booked. A beautiful setting in a relaxed resort.
How busy are the resorts?
Krabi was virtually in between Phi Phi island and Phuket in terms of buzz and feel, you can dip in and out. Very much what we were looking for and a relaxing 8 nights before our short flight back to Bangkok.
Is Bangkok really worth a visit?
Don’t forget we had 2-3 days in Bangkok at both the start and end of our trip. I had to be persuaded into the Bangkok stays but missing out on the experience would have been like shooting myself in the foot. Amazing city and friendly people, a huge city but certainly worth a visit and most probably return visits for us!
Should you travel around or stay in one location?
I personally wouldn’t do 14 days in Phuket alone as some others do, I think that’s too long in one place. Including Bangkok, Phi Phi Island and Krabi along with our organised day trips was a perfect way to experience the variety of Thailand.
Home We Go!
As we head home on the overnight flight, I look back on my favourite parts of this Thailand trip.
Stumbling across the Shanghai Moon bar in China Town, sitting outside having a couple of cold Chang beers watching the different cultures and way of life in what is a world away from Gourock was interesting and on a couple of occasions hilarious!
The Bangkok canal long tail boat tour was educational as well as great fun and a very worthwhile experience.
Our swim up room in the Aurico Hotel was an oasis away from tourist central.
The cruise to James Bond Island and time spent there was just magical as were the limestone cliffs and rock formations which we seemed to cruise by endlessly.
Check-in at SAii Island Village, Phi Phi Island was the most bizarre experience but well worth it as the island is absolutely stunning.
The unplanned tuk tuk trip to Reeve Beach Club, the spectacular fire show and my birthday gift and note from Maxie, my granddaughter.
The elation of making the 1260 steps to the summit of Wat Tham Seua, the majestic Tiger Cave Temple.
The fascinating night-time tuk tuk tour of Bangkok with our host Ms Nhong and Sanan our pilot.
And finally what I will miss the most is the incredible flavoursome Thai food, not just from top class restaurants such as the Boathouse on Kata Beach but at local restaurants such as Pad Thai on Phi Phi Island and Mom Bar & Restaurant in Krabi.
Oh and how could I forget the respect, kindness, pleasantness and endless smiles of the Thai people!
With grateful thanks to those friends who provided encouragement, guidance and recommendations on where to visit on our Thailand trip. Stephen Grimes, Gillian Gray, Finlay Gray, Andrew Glenny and David Shannon thank you for assisting in making great memories!
