Avid Traveller, Bordeaux, rogues in paradise, Slavery, TravelWatchNews

My dentist regularly has a go at me for my preference for red wine, black coffee and dark Barbados rum. So what links this blog apart from my dentist?

The barbaric slave triangle is the short answer. Bordeaux, the geographically closest port to the Caribbean and Africa, was in all logic, a strategic place for the unfortunate trade. The book Rogues in Paradise refers to this in the story of folk artist Woolly Hewitt. His DNA heritage dates back to the 1600s, with the French in Dahoney, now called Benin. “In 1851, the French negotiated a treaty with King Gezo to discourage the British move into Benin. It did not succeed, as the British soon imposed a naval blockade on the ports to force an end to the slave trade. The British signed a treaty with King Gezo that, in theory, ended the export of slaves from Port Dahomey. Britain abolished the transatlantic slave trade in 1807, but several African ports continued to supply slaves to other countries for some time after. There were many tussles between the French, English, and other Europeans over the years, but Dahomey remained a French colony until independence on August 1, 1960. The French language and customs persist to this day.

french slave trade

In the dark history of slavery, French ships transported 1,381,000 Africans to the New World during the transatlantic trade from the sixteenth to the nineteenth centuries. There are memories of this inhuman period in Bordeauxs’ Musée d’Aquitaine

Image Source https://slaveryandremembrance.org/articles/article/?id=A0097
More on British slavery and African heritage>>>

 

New Opportunity

While looking for a short-haul destination to visit, the opportunity of flying Easyjet to Bordeaux direct from Glasgow cropped up.

In the period between booking and travel, the civil unrest in France dominated news headlines throughout the world. The senseless killing of Nahel Merzouk, a French Algerian teenager, by a French police officer on a Parisian housing estate shocked the world and created a powder keg society in France. Undoubtedly various radical factions piggybacked on the outrage being felt across the nation and stoked the fires resulting in nights of violence and civil disobedience. Fellow passengers on our flight were apprehensive about what to expect despite the violence being reported in the newscasts as contained within certain areas of the main cities of Paris, Marseille, Metz, and Bordeaux.

Thankfully we were right not to be too concerned and yes there were signs of some vandalism – numerous smashed shop windows – but no violence!

Moving on!  

premium bordeaux red wine- AngelusWhat red wine lover wouldn’t visit this famed wine-growing region. Bordeaux is a port city on the Garonne River in south west France. It’s known for its gothic Cathédrale Saint-André, 18th and 19th century mansions and impressive art museums such as the Musée des Beaux-Arts de Bordeaux. Impressive gardens follow the meandering river and quays. The Place de la Bourse, which hosts the Three Graces fountain, overlooks the Miroir d’Eau which can be described as a mysterious reflecting pool but quite simply, kids and adults love running through it when it’s hot!

If you’re looking for a French city destination, then Bordeaux comes as a highly recommended alternative to Paris, Nice and Marseille. With easy access to terrific foodie experiences and friendly people, it’s also not too challenging to meander the city sites on foot. A short break can open up the very best of Bordeaux and the surrounding area.

Bordeaux–Mérignac Airport is the nearby international airport. Flights from the UK and across Europe are affordable and from the UK take between ninety minutes and just over two hours, dependent on UK departure airport. The region also has impressive rail links connecting commuters to the rest of France and across Europe. Bordeaux St Jean is the main rail station and the TGV, the high-speed train to Paris takes less than two hours. Many travelers also take the 200km train to San Sebastián in Spain. I’ve not done that trip yet but it’s on the list!

Located virtually halfway between Madrid and Paris, Bordeaux makes for the perfect pit stop between the capital cities of Spain and France.

Bordeaux – famous for what? 

What is Bourdoux famous for

Bordeaux is probably most famous for its wine, especially red wine. The city is also home to a surprising abundance of Haussmannian architecture, making it a sunny alternative to Paris. The area surrounding Bordeaux consists of endless vineyards and medieval towns, making it easy to explore during the sunnier months.

Bordeaux Wine Museums

There are two museums dedicated entirely to wine in Bordeaux. Travel reviews and tourists talk about the new, trendy and interactive Cité du Vin but there’s also a second wine museum which is far more traditional. The Musée du Vin et du Négoce de Bordeaux can be found in the historic Chartrons district of the city and costs as little as €10 to enter. Situated within the former wine cellar of the wine merchant for Louis XV, this museum comes complete with a very welcoming and complimentary wine tasting at your visit’s conclusion.

I didn’t make it but for those visiting the Cité du Vin this also comes complete with a complimentary wine tasting. Tickets are available to purchase on the day but in the summer months it’s recommend to buy your ‘billet’ in advance to beat the queues.

A top tip if you’re planning to see various Bordeaux museums and attractions, then it might be worth investing in the Bordeaux City Pass although it really depends on demand and season.

Chartrons District

I found Chartrons to be charming and intimate. The district is full of cobbled lanes and beautiful historic homes. I’d recommend you take a look at the Chartrons Temple, Notre Dame Street, and the little eateries of Les Halles des Chartrons.

Bordeaux Cathedral

Bourdeax Cathederal

 Can easily be described as one of the most beautiful Cathedrals in France,  it is really worth visiting to take in this 11th-century sight. Officially known as the Primatial Cathedral of St Andre of Bordeaux it’s surprisingly free to enter and to walk around.

The largest reflective pool in the world

Located on Place de la Bourse, the Miroir d’Eau is the largest reflective pool in the world. This remarkable water feature is 3450 metres squared and was created in 2006 from granite slabs. Locals told me that the best time to visit the Miroir d’Eau is at sunset when stunning colours dance across the sky or at night when the city lights reflect perfectly. Don’t forget your camera or phone!

Bordeaux history

There is no shortage of history staring you in the face. Some of the best architecture and historical sites in the city include the turreted Porte Cailhau (highlighted later in the blog) and the Musée des Beaux-Arts.

Open-top Bus City Tour

Join the open-top bus tour (Visi Tour Bordeaux) and get your city bearings while experiencing many amazing sights such as :

Monument Auz Girondins
Place de La Bourse
Miroir d’eau
Porte Cailhau
Gross Cloche
Palais de Justice
Palais Rohan
Jardin Public
Cite du Vin

A bargain at €16 per person for a seventy-minute tour with full commentary.

Local Cuisine

All that walking works up an appetite as well as a thirst. Wine aside, there are a million gastronomic reasons to visit Bordeaux and the surrounding area. French cuisine has it all from savory dishes that melt in your mouth to sweets, there are excellent bistros, cafés and restaurants.

Our experience was simply outstanding:

Homie’s Kitchen

36 Rue des Ayres, Bordeaux

Homies Litchen in bordeaux
Just off the main shopping street of Rue Sainte Catherine we found Homie’s. The best brunch we’ve had so far on our travels. Good coffee and hard to choose from the great food options on the menu. We all opted for different options (Shakahouka, Eggs Benedict, Eggs Royal and exceptional hash browns) and couldn’t fault any of them. I also ordered a detox smoothie which was delicious. Our host Paul was excellent, he spoke fluent English and helped guide us through the menu.

Homie means – a best friend for life, yes, but it’s more than that, it’s family. We returned here twice before our visit to Bordeaux came to an end.

Le Bouchon Bordelaise

2 Rue Courbin, Bordeaux

We were looking forward to our dinner here but given it was a set menu we were a bit apprehensive as to what might be served by the chefs Frédéric Vigouroux, Etienne, Matthéo, Lino and not forgetting Souleman. Our research proved correct and we were certainly not disappointed. On Le Bouchon Bordelaise set menu there is a choice of  4 courses (5 if you opt for the cheese which we did) or 6 courses. All our courses were absolutely delicious – creative, tasty and very well presented. We also opted to add in the wine pairing. A fairly eclectic mix of mainly white wine to match the food, but red with our main course. Most of the wines came from the nearby Bergerac region. The restaurant is fairly small, most tables were reserved and staff coped really well with a busy night. This superb restaurant is run by Fanny and her front of house team, Manon and Melissa, who took time to explain what we were being served and how the wine paired with it. Fanny makes sure she welcomes and interacts with everyone. A remarkable meal which will not be forgotten and ideally finished off with coffee, Laballe Vieille Reserve Armagnac or Menthe Pastille, a mint digestive.

If you want a local cuisine experience and trust leaving your options with the chef, this cannot be more highly recommended.

Le Petit Commerce

22 Rue de Parlement, Saint Pierre.

We visited this restaurant as it has a reputation for being one of the best seafood restaurants in Bordeaux. Little else on the menu bar fresh, local and seasonal seafood. We visited twice, once with friends for dinner and once on our own for lunch. It was fabulous and a true treat for the tastebuds. Everything we had – crab, smoked salmon, lemon sole, sardines, mussels and hake – was tremendous. I’m told their desserts are also superb but never made it that far. The wine list covers all tastes but try not to mix up the American cocktail when asking for a Cafe Americano.

Well worth the two visits. 

Bistrot à huitres “Chez Jean-Mi”

Marché des Capucins, PI. des Gross Capucins.

A great bar/restaurant within the Marche des Capucins, it is very busy at the weekends, note – get there before 1100 otherwise you will have to queue. The oysters are just incredible, take advantage of the packages on offer such as 6 oysters and white wine for €9.50. Eat while you watch the locals buying their market produce or just chill and enjoy the atmosphere. We also ordered 6 large crevettes which again were delicious. It’s also worth a slow wander around the market stalls. The fresh fish, vegetables, herbs and meat on offer is really impressive.

A local institution not to be missed!

La Maison du Glacier

1 Pal e St Pierre.

Another institution is the ice cream parlour, La Maison du Glacier. You will have to queue but that gives you time to choose from the endless list of ice cream and sorbet flavours. Just sublime, especially on a hot summer day. The rum & raisin and peanut ice cream were fabulous while the cassis and melon sorbets a truly wonderful combination.

Berthus

15 Rue des Bahuiters.

Berthus

On our last night we wandered the Bordeaux streets, nothing booked and a lot of restaurants are closed on Sunday and Monday. Berthus was open so we had a look, oh no, another set menu. This time called ‘Seasonal’ but to be honest it looked good. A rather uninspiring front door, don’t be fooled by the three bar stools at the entrance. This is the kitchen and there are many tables upstairs in a couple of nice dining areas. From the word go, our host Alex really looked after us. The seasonal menu at an astonishing €25 a head was just wonderful. Despite my earlier reservations the food was excellent, very simple and very tasty.

Value for money this restaurant is up there with the best and no wonder it has a Tripadvisor Traveller’s Choice Award.

Bordeaux Luxury

Similar to Paris, Bordeaux undoubtedly has its fair share of stunning hotels and luxury accommodations. The best hotels in Bordeaux include the 18th century Villa Reale which offers self-catering apartments and the chic Hotel Burdigala which is named in homage to the Roman name for Bordeaux. The four star Hotel de Seze situated in the heart of the historic old town also offers great accommodation. Although not luxurious, our accommodation was the recently opened Staycity Aparthotel. Compact but modern, well-equipped rooms, ideally located and catered for our every need. Recommend unless you’re looking to spoil yourself.

Porte Cailhau

Porte Cailhau

My travelling companions (Janis & Jim) were mightily impressed with the Disney -esq Porte Cailhau. When Bordeaux was a walled city this was the grand gateway to the city. It’s highly recommended to view this very impressive 14th-century architecture early in the morning when the sunlight shines through the gateway and illuminates all in its path. 

Grosse Cloche (Big Bell)

Rue Saint-James

Grosse Cloche 

This huge 7800kg iron bell’s home in a giant medieval belfry stands on the St. Eloi passage within an impressive archway. In the Middle Ages it was a gate into the city centre. The bell was interred in Santiago de Compostela, Spain. Featuring in the city’s coat of arms the tower was built in the 12th century with the large bell being added in the 15th century.

The bell was regularly used throughout the Middle Ages, its purpose made clear from its inscription which reads,
“I call to arms, I announce the days, I give the hours, I chase the storm, I ring the holidays, and I cry out for fire”.

A very central location and great to use as a landmark to get your bearings. With beautiful historic streets around it containing some fantastic boulangeries, bars and bistros.

Regional day trips and other events 

Whether you want to visit stunning beaches, swim in the sea, or sample some fantastic local wine, there are numerous trips on offer from Bordeaux. Some recommended day trips include: Arcachon town, Dune du Pilat – Europe’s largest sand dune, and Saint-Émilion – the medieval city.

Cycling Wine Tour

Cycling

Rustic Wine Tours
8 Rue André Loiseau, 33330, Saint-Émilion.

Prior to visiting the stunning old town of St Emilion we booked up with Rustic Vine Tours for a full day wine tour using electric assisted bikes, taking in some incredible rolling countryside and vineyards. The electric assistance was simple to use and very welcome on the steep inclines on our tour. Our group of 6 visited Château Bernateau and Chateau St Georges while enjoying St Emilion wine tastings and a picnic lunch. This gave us time to introduce ourselves and chat to our cycling companions, Matt & Jennifer from California. Our day concluded with a walking tour of St Emilion itself which is a UNESCO-listed world heritage site. Our tour guide Nicolas Floret was not just an expert on the theatre and decorum attached to French wine drinking but also very well versed in local history of battlefields and the surrounding villages. At the last moment Nicolas went out of his way to take us to a local family producer of Cremant de Bordeaux. This is a fantastic AOC classified sparkling white made similarly to champagne but in the heart of Bordeaux and recognised since April 1990, this comes from a longstanding tradition in the region of producing top rated sparkling wines, dating back as far as the 19th century.

cycling through the country

This is a day not to be missed and one which I will certainly repeat when I return.

We will also seek out Nicolas as our guide!

Arcachon

Arcachon is a beach town fifty minutes and fifty five kilometres by train from Bordeaux St Jean station. This popular seaside resort has a mild climate and the longest and sandiest coast (200 kilometres) on the Atlantic, running all the way to Biarritz.

The coast is known as France’s Côte d’Argent (‘the Silver Coast’). It originated as a popular destination for people from Bordeaux to escape the city heat at weekends but has since been developed into one of the most popular and attractive seaside destinations in France.

There are four main beaches in Arcachon, the Plage Pereire, Plage des Abatilles, Plage d’Arcachon and Plage d’Eyrac. Just a few kilometres away is also the stunning Plage du Moulleau with great restaurants, situated virtually on the sand, and an olde world carousel.

Plage du Moulleau

About ten kilometres south of Arcachon sits the second largest lake in France called the Lac de Cazaux but the most popular attraction in the area is found a few kilometres to the south-west.

A fifty minute cycle on a dedicated cycle path from Arcachon station takes you through some really impressive beach side districts of outer Arcachon to the  ‘Dune du Pilat’.  The largest sand dune in Europe, at more than 110 metres high. It is about 3km long, and very steep. If you can only imagine it, think ten times higher than your thoughts …. it’s huge!!

Plage du Moulleau

You can climb directly up the sand to the top or use the 154 stairs to take in the stunning views which are simply ‘magnifique’.

Arcachon, with its town, beaches, lake and sand dune is a fantastic experience and with a one way train ticket from Bordeaux at €10, a relatively inexpensive adventure.

A day out I guarantee you will not forget.

World Heritage Site

Since 2007, 40% of Bordeaux’s surface area, located around the Port de La Lune, is now listed as world heritage sites. Unesco identifies  Bordeaux as “an inhabited historic city, an outstanding urban and architectural ensemble, created in the age of the Enlightenment, whose values continued up to the first half of the 20th century, with more protected buildings than any other French city except Paris”.

Paris to Bordeaux

Many comparisons are made between Paris and Bordeaux and due to the outbreak of war the French National Government has relocated several times to Bordeaux. At the start of the France and Prussia war (1870) the Government temporarily relocated from Paris. This happened again during World War 1 and very briefly during the Second World War when Paris fell to Hitler’s Germany.

My main comparison is simply that the people of Bordeaux are friendly, welcoming and accommodating. I found this a complete contrast to my experience of Paris and enhanced my view of the French public.

Tour de France

tour de francew

During our visit Bordeaux hosted the finish of the 7th stage of the Tour de France (Mont-de Marsan to Place des Quinconces, Bordeaux). This was the first time since 2010 the city has hosted the historic race and it wasn’t going to let it go by without a bang!

The leading riders arrived to tens of thousands of fans lining the left bank’s 2 kilometre boulevard. Prior to this the the Tour’s partners put on a show, handing out thousands of promotional gifts to surprise the waiting fans. Several huge tv screens showed the riders approach and commentators whipped the crowd into a frenzy. With helicopters overhead in the hot sun, the atmosphere and tension was incredible! Then the peloton passed by about 55km per hour! Caught on camera to replay again and again. A brilliant experience and an amazing party atmosphere.

What is the best time to visit Bordeaux?

Though Bordeaux is beautiful to visit at any time of the year (indeed it’s the city that Parisians say they’d most like to live in, if they weren’t based in Paris), there are better times of the year to visit than others. For example, the winter is the quiet season while summer sees the most tourists. If you want to enjoy the best of the weather with lower prices, then visit in late spring or early autumn. Visit between May and November and you’ll also be able to enjoy the vines in their full glory.

How many days should I spend in Bordeaux?

The exact number of days you should stay in Bordeaux is entirely dependant on your travel schedule and what you wish to see when in the city. However, a good balance is a long weekend as this allows you to experience the ambiance of the city, as well as many of the major attractions and some hidden gems along the way.

On my return I will have at least three night in Bordeaux, two nights in St Emilion and if spring or summer at least four nights somewhere near the Arcachon beaches.

Au revoir

Well it’s all over, what welcoming people and a great city visit with trips to the countryside and coast thrown in. A highly recommended city break.

Having arrived with media coverage of riots and demonstrations, we saw nothing that caused unease. Certainly, high profile ‘armed’ policing patrols were frequent and highly visible but no issues at all.

Whether it was sampling the local drink Lillet, the elusive but splendid sparkling Cremant du Bordeaux, some wonderful red wines, the locally farmed oysters, candles (small locally baked cakes), shopping in Rue Saint Catherine or just wandering about the beautiful streets and taking in the historic sights, Bordeaux and the surrounding area was ‘parfait’!

Summary Video

About

Calum Glenny Avid Traveller

 

Calum Glenny
Gourock’s Avid Traveller
In association with RoguesinParadise

Rogues Travel Guides and The Book:
RoguesinParadise

The Real Story of Barbados

 

 

More about The Avid Traveller and Rogues Guides


africa, obeah-voodoo, travel literature, TravelWatchNews

 

Exploring the differences between Voodoo and Obeah in the Caribbean

The Rogues article on Voodoo inspired this blog. While Voodoo is not common in Barbados and many Caribbean islands, it has influenced religious practices in many islands. One of those derivates is Obea: An afro-influenced spiritual and magical tradition.  Obeah draws on African religious elements, including but not limited to Voodoo. It reinterprets and “Africanizes” Voodoo, Christian practices, and a combination of many religions—a creolization of religions. In some regions of the Caribbean, aspects of Indigenous and South Indian religions have been incorporated into the practice. While it draws on some elements of Voodoo, there are critical differences between Voodoo and Obeah:

Mysterious Differences

Obeah voodoo influences differences

  • Origins: Voodoo originated in West Africa and was brought to the Caribbean through the transatlantic slave trade. It has strong influences from the Fon and Ewe cultures of present-day Benin and Togo. Conversely, Obeah emerged in the Caribbean region itself, primarily in Jamaica and other parts of the West Indies.
  • Belief Systems: Voodoo encompasses a complex belief system that combines elements of African animism, spirit worship, and Catholicism. It emphasizes the veneration of spirits (loa) and the interconnectedness of the spiritual and physical realms. Obeah, in contrast, is often described as a more folk-based and individualistic practice. It incorporates elements of folk magic, herbalism, and ancestral reverence.
  • Rituals and Practices: Voodoo rituals involve elaborate ceremonies, drumming, dancing, and spirit possession. There is an emphasis on community participation and traditions typically held in dedicated sacred spaces such as temples or outdoor shrines. Obeah practices, on the other hand, are often more private and individualistic. They may involve using charms, herbs, divination, and spellcasting.
  • Spellcasting and Magic: Both Voodoo and Obeah practitioners engage in spellcasting and magical practices, but there are differences in their approaches. Voodoo spellcasting often involves the invocation of specific loa, intricate rituals, and using symbolic objects. Obeah practitioners, on the other hand, may focus more on folk remedies, charms, and spells tailored to specific needs or desires.
  • Cultural Influences: Voodoo has been more widely recognized and studied by scholars and has gained some degree of exposure in popular culture, particularly in Haiti and New Orleans. Obeah, in comparison, has remained more localized and less well-known outside the Caribbean region.
  • Variants of Obeah are practiced in the Caribbean nations of the Bahamas, Barbados, Belize, Dominica, Grenada, Guyana, Jamaica, Saint Lucia, Saint Vincent and the Grenadines, Suriname, Turks and Caicos Islands, Trinidad and Tobago, and the Virgin Islands.

More about Voodoo

See the original article at Rogues in Paradise:

Discovering the Mystery and History of Voodoo

Rogues in Paradise is the real story of Babados’ People, place, and history. It traces the origins of several Bajans back to Africa and studies the tribal influences, philosophy, and heritage.

 

Related links

 

Thje story behind the Book Rogues in Paradise

About the Bajan People

More Historical Mysteries


barbados, rogues in paradise, travel literature, TravelWatchNews

Uncover the captivating story of Ferdinand Paleologue, Barbados Greek Dynasty at Rest in St. Johns Church. He is from the esteemed Palaiologos Greek family that ruled the Byzantine Empire until the 15th century. He embarked on a remarkable journey that brought him to Barbados. Fleeing the English Civil War turbulence, Ferdinand arrived on the island in 1644, immersing himself in its privileged circles and establishing his position among the elite.

His influence extended beyond agriculture, with Ferdinand playing a pivotal role in shaping the spiritual landscape of Barbados. From serving as a vestryman to ascending to the distinguished position of churchwarden at St. John’s Parish Church, he left an indelible mark on the island’s ecclesiastical affairs.

Greek Dynasty in Barbados Ferdinand was buried in the graveyard at the church. His tombstone reads, “Here lyeth ye body of Ferndinando Paleolocus descended from ye imperial line of ye last Christian emperors of Greece.” Died on October 3, 1678.

Unearth the allure of Barbados as a refuge for those seeking new beginnings, witness Ferdinand Paleologue’s contributions to the island’s economic and spiritual fabric, and marvel at the spectacular home he built,  Clifton Hall, a testament to his grand vision. This is your invitation to experience the captivating legacy of Ferdinand Paleologue and the extraordinary people who have shaped the paradise of Barbados. See the spectacular St. Johns Church, perched on the breathtaking Hackeltons Cliff.

 

St. Johns church on the edge of the cliff.

Don’t miss the opportunity to delve deeper into the captivating stories of Barbados’ rogues, heroes, and emperors. Discover the thought-provoking book,Rogues in Paradise,” which challenges traditional perspectives and showcases the extraordinary individuals shaping the island’s vibrant culture.

Join us on this journey and unravel the rich tapestry of Barbados’ history, where elegance, influence, and a spirit of resilience converge to create a story that inspires you. Explore more and secure your invitation to the “Rogues in Paradise Free chapters book launch by clicking the link below.rogues in paradise celebrating Bajan culture

Related Links –

The Barbados Tourism Encyclopedia Blog on Ferdinand Paleologue

More Mysteries of History –RoguesinParadise Mysteries

The Real Story of Barbados People, place, history and Culture Rogues in Paradise. About Rogues in Paradise

 


Avid Traveller, barbados, caribbean culture and heritage tourism, go local, rogues in paradise, TravelWatchNews

Go Local in Barbados is the latest blog by  Avid Traveller, Calum Glenny Calum has recently produced numerous travel guides for Europe, North America, Oceania and now revisits Barbados in the Caribbean while escaping the Scottish winter weather.

Calum’s travel review highlights local people, mainly vendors who despite the pause to business created by Covid have burst back onto the scene. The highly successful vaccination programme delivered to the Barbados population by Major David Clarke is also acknowledged.

Miami Beach & Janelle Natural Fruit Drinks

Go local in Barbados
GoLocal with  Dancing Moon Cruises from Miami Beach

Calum first visits Janelle at her pop up stand near Miami/Enterprise Beach. Sampling her chilled homemade natural juices on the beach sent the taste buds tingling. Calum highlights the intriguing combinations of local flavours available and links the theory behind making the natural juice drinks to a London family who have taken the idea from Barbados to London and set up their own business, OTC Beverages making Caribbean natural fruit juice drinks in the UK.

Calum then moves onto the lady Alison who makes the most delicious fish cakes from the back of her old white car adjacent to the Enterprise Beach Facility. Alison is a delight to speak to and often has several people waiting on her mouth watering produce and hot sauce.

Next is an early morning visit to Brighton Farmers Market for the best breakfast sausage and egg cutter from Liam’s Cottage Meats stand. Calum’s favourite take away breakfast on the island.

locals and tourist at Brighton Market

While at the market Calum also samples Neil’s superb fish pate and to go with his sausage breakfast, a lovely coffee from Pilebucks.

After breakfast Calum checks out and makes a purchase at the hand crafted jewellery stand of Kimberley White at Summergems. Kimberley is a talented young local jeweller.

On a sightseeing drive North, Calum bumps into the gregarious Andrew Kellman. Andrew’s local knowledge very quickly becomes apparent, and all of a sudden, the chance encounter leads to an unofficial tour of the stunning sights at Cove Bay and Little Bay. A very worthwhile and educating 45-minute, unplanned tour, including links to Tenerife and Billy Ocean!

Calum then moves to Oistins where on a Friday night, the Fish Fry sends the town into party mode!  Oistins is a historic town of Barbados as it was the scene of the planned  Barbados Civil War; a war that ended without a shot as the leader retired to the tavern to write what became the charter of Barbados. Way ahead of its time, it laid out rights and a form of self goverment unheard of in the region.

Oistins bay
Oistins Bay where the civil war that wasn’t almost happened.  See story in Rogues

Calum highlights his favourite restaurant, Chillin & Grillin in Oistins Bay Gardens. Food, service and location for people watching is second to none thanks to Lana who is assisted by Shonte, Phillip, and Allan, among others

rogues in paradise celebrating Bajan culture
In a previous trip Calum met local author Ian R. Clayton who gave him an advance copy of his unpublished book Rogues in Paradise.

He says Ian’s Book is fascinating. It is funny and solemn and guaranteed to amuse and enrich the reader’s knowledge of Barbados. Calum notes that with every visit, he recognises similar characters (rogues) when wandering the island. Calum’s theory that ‘The people make Barbados and Barbados is its people!’ is confirmed in Rogues in Paradise.

Concluding, Calum mentions the respect shown on the island to all people, whether locals or visitors. One incident In Barbados stands out as a prime example and shows Bajan people at their very best!

Video Summary

Author

Calum Glenny Avid Traveller

 

Calum Glenny- The Avid Traveller

See the full blog ar https://barbados.org/blog/barbados-local-guides-experiences


Avid Traveller, rogues in paradise, TravelWatchNews

Bora Bora Island Paradise

The journey

The Journey | Background | Volcano  | Accommodation | Restaurants | Adventure | Video

Twenty five minute taxi journey from Gourock to Glasgow Airport. An hour flight from Glasgow to London, eleven hours flight London to San Francisco, eight hours flight from San Francisco to Tahiti and finally a 50 minute island hop flight from Tahiti to our Bora Bora island paradise!

BoraBora-airport

Oh and a 20 minute boat trip from the airport island to Vaitape Quay on the main island, then a 10 minute coastal drive to our destination. Nearly 10,000 miles from Gourock!

What a journey, ten hours behind the UK but thankfully it was broken up by celebrating my Mother’s special birthday in California and a short stay in Tahiti. On the Tahiti to Bora Bora flight I picked up a tip to sit on the left of the aircraft as this provides some incredible views of the islands and the approach to Bora Bora Airport.

bungalo sand dunes

On arrival by boat our host at Hititini Bungalow had arranged for her father Maurice and mother Emilie to collect us. Both were very welcoming and kind, allowing us a visit to a nearby supermarket for supplies prior to the short drive to our beach front accommodation. The short journey was an education with commentary in a mix of French, English and Tahitian by Maurice. More on that later!

Bora Bora Island Paradise – Background

The Journey | Background | Volcano  | Accommodation | Restaurants | Adventure | Video

Palm Trees on Bay
History states that in 1769, Captain James Cook was the first visitor to Bora Bora. The British explorer was on a South Pacific mission when he stumbled upon this island paradise but records state that the islands were first sighted by Dutch admiral Jacob Roggeveen in 1722. These islands were later claimed as dependencies of Tahiti within the protectorate by France in 1847 and became part of the French colony in 1880. French is freely spoken throughout the islands as well as Tahitian. Some useful words and phrases are provided further on in this blog.

What’s in a name

Locals pronounce the island’s name differently from most tourists. In Tahitian dialect, they pronounce the letter ‘B’ as ‘P’, so perhaps it should be Pora Pora. You will see both being used on signs across the island.

Bora Bora Island Overview

Bora Bora Map
Virtually half way between the United States and Australia, Bora Bora sits 727 metres above sea level and is a small piece of paradise in the South Pacific. Once a US military supply base and now known amongst many other things for its precious black pearls. The island comprises of 3 villages, Anau, Faanui and Vaitape. With Vaitape being the main village situated on the western part of the island.

There are about 8,800 residents on the island and it has essential businesses like banks, a post office, restaurants, cafés, a hospital, and an impressive new school/university. Most Sundays in Vaitape, there is a market selling goods such as clothes, jewellery and other local delicacies and trinkets.

The ‘Caldera’ and Volcano

The Journey | Background | Volcano  | Accommodation | Restaurants | Adventure | Video

Mount Pahia

This ‘caldera’ is essentially a large depression formed some 7 million years ago, when a volcano erupted and collapsed into the Pacific Ocean. It now forms part of the Leeward Islands in French Polynesia. Thanks to its secluded beauty, chilled vibe, and sumptuous spa culture it has fast become a romantic or honeymoon destination. At the centre of the island are the green rainforest peaks of Mount Pahia and Mount Otemanu.

Many people hike the extinct volcanoes, although for me it was a stunning backdrop to lazy days in the sun and in the deep-blue lagoon which surrounds the main island. White sand ringed islands (motus) surround the main island. From the air they look simply magical.

The deep blue waters and coral reefs are teaming with tropical fish and sting rays, spotted daily from our beach bungalow and nearby is the spectacular Matira beach, claimed to be the most beautiful in the world. If you’re a snorkeller, scuba diver, paraglider or into any other active sports this place is the destination for you!

sting ray gliding over the sand

The entire island extends to 18 miles making it too small for decent public transport. However, there are rental cars, bikes, two-seater buggies for hire or you can walk. Or be even more adventurous and rent a motorboat to explore the lagoon. The island has only one main road that runs along the shoreline so getting lost is not an option.

Accommodation – Bungalow Hititini

The Journey | Background | Volcano  | Accommodation | Restaurants | Adventure | Video

Much research discovered the fantastic Hititini Bungalow situated on Matira Point. It is small, spotlessly clean and has absolutely everything you need on your travels. The private beach was simply amazing with stunning views and a white sandbank that leads down to the crystal clear water.

Brora Bora Hititini Bungalow Accommodation

Owners Moeata and Christophe are very kind and pleasant hosts, they are great to tap into for local knowledge and advice. They spend a lot of time with you on arrival explaining what is available in the bungalow. Moeata surprised us on our arrival with bowls of papaya and coconut and a coconut to drink. A quick lesson on how to open it and we were sitting on the terrace with our fresh fruit and drinking from a coconut staring at the stunning view across the lagoon. Just sublime! Moeata and Christophe make you feel special and very welcome in Bora Bora. No wonder they consistently score 5/5 on traveller reviews!

the bay - sand and sea

If I was to pick a very slight issue it would be the lack of storage in the bungalow for luggage. We had travelled via San Francisco so had large cases with clothes for cold and warm weather. We managed but the bungalow is definitely set up for the lighter traveller and let’s be honest, you don’t need a lot of clothes in Bora Bora but you do in a cold San Francisco, so we were caught between a rock and a hard place!

Beach and ocean view from the Bora bora Paradise Bungalo

There is a convenience store just across the road from the bungalow selling essentials, fresh bread and delicious pastries every day. The Lucky House restaurant and take away is next door and offers excellent local food and great pizza cooked to perfection in their pizza oven. More on the Lucky House later!

Just a short road walk or slightly longer beach walk is the Bora Bora Beach Club, again more on that later!

There is very limited and unreliable public transport and it is a 10/15 minute drive to the shops on Viatape from the bungalow. Hititini is all about peace, quiet and ultimately location – which is absolutely perfect.

Bora Bora Beach Club Restaurant

Bora Bora Beach Club

Situated 5 mins walk by road or 10 minutes via the white sand beach this bar/restaurant sits right on Matira beach which is a stunning location. Sitting sipping a cold Hinano beer and watching the sunset simply must be done. This is where we sampled the Vin de Tahiti – Rosé Nacarat which is a Tahitian produced dry rose wine. With such a French influence in the region no wonder they are producing good wines.

The Beach Club serves great food for lunch and dinner with ever changing views across the beach. Tapas and a happy hour are available between 4 and 6pm. On several visits our server Kailo was very pleasant and extremely attentive. As well as serving dining customers, Kailo found time to mix some great Mojito and Pina Colada cocktails which we sipped while watching sting rays and reef sharks gently glide by in the shallow waters in front.

A highly recommended stop off point after walking round the crescent shaped Matira Beach. Or book your table via the restaurant Facebook site with live entertainment playing on a Friday evening.

We booked to see Boussai, a French reggae band on the final night of their Pacific tour. It was a really good night with the venue full to capacity and locals enjoying the opportunity to party. Life must be hard for the band touring the South Pacific Islands!

Lucky House- Fare Manuia Restaurant

Lucky House – Fare Manuia Restaurant

Locally known as ‘Lucky’s’ and situated steps from Bungalow Hititini. We visited for lunch and despite only six tables being occupied some of the waiting staff seemed a bit overwhelmed. However, I will say the food was really good. We shared a caesar salad and a pizza which I must say were very tasty!

There is a small pool in the venue which was used by kids while we were there. Great way to keep the kids occupied! Despite the haphazard service I do recommend a visit!

Bloody Marys Cabana

Bloody Mary’s
Povai Bay, Bora Bora
+689 40 67 69 10

From Bungalow Hititini take a quick 25 minute walk towards Viatape past the Tsnuami Refuge Zone and Bloody Mary’s is situated opposite a small pontoon and beach. Bloody Mary’s opened in 1979 and has developed a bit of a reputation as an institution on the island, all tourists and to be fair locals regularly flock there. It brands itself a restaurant, yacht club and bar. It’s styled as a large Tiki hut bar & grill with a sand floor, a souvenir shop and a celebrity wall of fame from past visitors.

bloody mary totem pole

We visited for lunch on a tropical rainy day. There is a huge selection of cocktails and drinks available, following the venue’s name we ordered the Absolute Bloody Mary.

Finally the perfect drink in paradise

It was good and I did enjoy it but found it too heavy to drink with my meal so ordered a Hinano beer and rose wine to go with our fish tacos and grilled chicken wraps. Portion sizes were enormous and to be honest one of the meals could easily have

been shared. Next time we will do it Spanish style and share a dish. The kitchen like many other on the island closes at 2pm and reopens at 6pm so keep that in mind if visiting.

It’s a very open venue with outside toilets which are quite quirky as are the half dozen chickens that frequently walk through clucking away. If only they knew what was on the menu!

Definitely worth a visit if you’re nearby or mooring your yacht off the Yacht Club.

Restaurant Les Délices De Bora Bora
Centre Ville, Viatape, 98730

This restaurant was discovered during our research, while a local resident confirmed our thoughts on their reputation for very well prepared and presented fresh local fish and attentive and hospitable staff.

When we booked by email we requested their pick up service for what was a 15 minute drive and far better than a 90 minute walk on the dark roads without pavements. A lot of places on the island offer a pick up service as taxis are expensive.

Right on time Jean picked us up and transported us to the restaurant.

les Delice exotic cominations

We chose our mains from a very interesting menu with a fair selection of fish and meat options. Ahead of ordering we were presented with a dish of what I thought was a strange combination – fresh coconut and black olives soaked in olive oil. Initially, I was very hesitant but the fresh coconut in olive oil was outstanding.

Next up was a complimentary appetiser of light fish pate on crisp toast bread – really tasty.

For our mains we sampled parrot fish wrapped in banana leaf with green beans & steamed rice and mussels in garlic cream with frites. Portion sizes were perfect and both dishes were delicious and highly recommended.

A shared sweet of banana flambé, roasted nuts and local vanilla ice cream followed. It was incredible and so moorish, I didn’t want it to end or to share!

After coffee we settled up and Jean immediately appeared back to drive us home.

Arc En Ciel

During the drive he mentioned that Les Delice was a family business and that they also own Arc En Ciel which sells black pearls. We arranged with Jean to pick us up the following morning for transportation to the shop where we were assured the best deals are available. You can read more about the black pearls later. Les Delice is undoubtedly one of the best places we’ve been to in Bora Bora. It’s not only tourists that the restaurant attracts but mostly locals which is a very good sign. I suggest it’s definitely a place to try during a stay.

Saint James
Helen’s Bay Centre
10 min slow walk from Vaitape +689 40 67 64 62

st.James restaurant
Considered by many (locals included) as the best restaurant on Bora Bora’s main island, St. James is hidden in the back of a Vaitape shopping centre right on the water. Consisting of a sand bar, sundeck and restaurant it serves breakfast, lunch and dinner. It also houses Mahana Store which sells clothing and accessories from local artists and brands. Something to keep the ladies browsing while the boys drink a Hinano beer.

We visited for lunch and chose from the tapas menu thinking they would be smaller portions! The small charcuterie board was delicious, consisting of a healthy portion of Serrano ham, Pave Lyonnais (salami type) & gherkins. Jumbo shrimp tempura with sweet chilli sauce & guacamole followed plus spicy falafel. Food was delicious and sitting on the edge of the water looking out across the bay to where the cruise ships drop anchor is delightful. It was very warm but thankfully with a cooling breeze.

Unapologetically French, really good food, exceptional choice of wine and a wide range of cigars. Great sand bar with huge choice of cocktails. An attraction for both tourists and locals which speaks volumes. We will be back!

Tama’a Maitai – linked to Maitai Polynesia Hotel.

tama-a-maitai restaurant
We visited three times between lunch and dinner as the location is simply stunning and about a 3 minute walk from Bungalow Hititini. It’s also very quiet and after a busy day in the sun provides tranquillity with fabulous food.

maitai hotelIt’s essentially the beach restaurant of the Maitai Polynesia hotel but anybody can walk-in to the restaurant.

There is an open kitchen, so diners can watch their dinner being cooked or you can simply sip your cocktail and gaze past the hotel water bungalows out to the lagoon. The cocktail selection is excellent (Pineapple daiquiri is recommended) and food to match. Try the chicken curry with coconut milk, the spicy beef stir fry (very salty) or the fish kebab. The light salads are great at lunch with the locally caught prawn salad the star.

On the occasions we visited there was a strong wind (warm) so we ate under the huge straw roof and were protected from the breeze by a canopy, there are plenty of tables outside if the wind is lighter. If it’s peace and quiet, good food and a relaxing drink you’re looking for then look no further, this ticks all the boxes.

Matira Beach

The Journey | Background | Volcano  | Accommodation | Restaurants | Adventure | Video

One of the most beautiful beaches in the world. Like a never-ending swimming pool. Great for paddle boarding or watching the sting rays and fish swimming by!

Matira Beach, Bora Bora

Maitai Beach is the largest public access beach in Bora Bora making it extremely popular with visitors. The water is crystal-clear and the sand is soft although watch out for the patches of coral. The beach is adjacent to some hotels, shops, bars/restaurants and road side stalls so it’s a convenient place to spend a day. Tourists and locals speak very highly of the beach and area. They highlight the incredibly blue water and how the shoreline is rarely ever crowded making it the perfect place for some rest and relaxation. If you don’t have time to spend a whole day at the beach, many say the sunsets are certainly worth a visit.

You’ll find the beach about 5 miles south of Vaitape or a two minute walk from Bungalow Hititini. Bicycle travel to the beach is best (unless it rains). If you have a hire car, parking is available adjacent to Snack Matira cafe.

Speaking of transport, limited taxis are available on the island but recommended drivers are:
Taxi Loma +689 87 27 49 36
Taxi Alex +689 89 22 79 17 or +689 89 50 98 41
or book on email: matehaalalexandre@gmail.com

Bora Bora Paradise Island Adventures

The Journey | Background | Volcano  | Accommodation | Restaurants | Adventure | Video
Drive, Scooter, Cycle or Walk around the Island

I’d thoroughly recommend circumnavigating the island. Avis Car Hire provide a map buts there’s only one circular coastal road so you definitely won’t get lost.

To drive it takes 45 minutes with no stops. To cycle, the road around the main island is 18 miles and mostly flat. It takes about 2 hours to bike but take time to include a stop for lunch, a visit to Matira Beach, hiking to see WWII cannons, and snorkelling. I’d guess that a walk around the island would take about 3-4 hours depending on pace and weather.

I also guarantee that there is no way you won’t stop to take in the views or have a quick dip or snorkel. We stopped a couple of times and snorkelled with shoals of blue, yellow and black fish just before the village of Faanui on the North West coast looking out towards the airport on Moto Mute.

adventures In Paradise Bora Bora

It’s worthy noting that the unlit roads on Bora Bora can be dark at night and there are no pavements. Make sure your phone is charged and use your torch where appropriate.

Avis Car hire is two minutes walk from Hititini bungalow or you can book directly online. Staff are very accommodating and one staff member even stopped to offer us a lift when we were sheltering from a tropical downpour. Well done sir (bravo monsieur) for such a simple polite gesture.

When we rented our vehicle we dealt with Willsea who was great. We walked in but you can pre-book your hire on: https://apps.apple.com/fr/app/Bora-explorer/id146828304

Pirogue tour by Bora Lagoonarium

Lagoonarium

Bora Lagoonarium offers a Pirogue tour. A Pirogue is a a long, narrow canoe made from a single tree trunk, pretty standard water transport on the islands.

Pick up is at 0830 and the day starts with a visit to Coral Gardens where you will see stingrays, grey/black tip sharks and if you’re lucky leopard rays and mantra rays. Next on the aqua agenda is the Lagoonarium where if you’re bold enough you can swim with reef sharks and watch turtles, rays and a huge amount and variation of fish.

Lunch is next on a private motu (island). The spread includes rice salad, raw fish in coconut milk, grilled chicken or fish, po’e (Polynesian pudding), taro (a tuber but not a potato), ipo uto (bread made with coconut milk), banana fritters, local seasonal fruit and plenty of mineral water. After lunch there is a quick tour of some of the nearby islands, transport back to the mainland about 3pm and a return to your accommodation.

Self Drive Bora Bora Jet Ski Tour

Recommended by a neighbour, but unfortunately we could not participate, was the speedy jet ski experience on the famous Bora Bora lagoon. According to our neighbour the ‘adrenaline and culture filling’ jet ski tour is just exhilarating; the impressive turquoise waters and island views were stunning, while snorkelling to explore the coral reef opened up the busy under water seascape. They were chaperoned by a licensed jet ski instructor, who regularly stopped during the tour to allow photo opportunities and point out sights of interest. Comes as a highly recommended experience and well worth the money.

Local Area Produce

Vaitape Shoping- Bora Home Galeria

Within the main road area in Vaitape and near the harbour there are several shops and supermarkets. The shops tend to sell T-shirts, dresses and tourist gifts. One shop that caught our attention was Bora Home Galeria. It was impressive and sold locally produced items, unique ornaments, jewellery and modern paintings. This was totally different from the other shops in the local area. The hand printed Polynesian dresses were very impressive, slightly on the expensive side but you’ repaying for exclusive items. Worth a visit even just to window shop! Lots of German tourists from a visiting cruise ship did just that while we were making a purchase. The owner was delighted we spoke English as he was struggling with his German.

Bora Bora Black Pearls

Bora Bora Black Pears
Polonesia Culture Center- https://polynesia.com/blog/the-original-tahitian-black-pearl

The Bora Bora black pearl is a symbol of exotic luxury and decadence, renowned the world over. Known as poerava (black pearl) in French Polynesia, these prized jewels are a favourite keepsake of visitors to Bora Bora. They are produced by black-lipped oysters, which thrive in waters surrounding Bora Bora and the other French Polynesian islands.

In the past Bora Bora pearls were considered to be the rarest and most valuable cultured pearls in the world. Still the pearls with the most intrigue and value, but the pearl farming market has brought their world ranking down in terms of rarity and unfortunately value.

I suggest you do some research before buying and always ask for a discount and a certificate of authentication. It’s also useful to obtain some prior knowledge about grades of pearls. Find out important facts about differences in colour, shape, weight and size. Variations in pricing exist between places that sell pearls so shop around first and make it fun, remember you are making a purchase that should be enjoyed for many years.

Various local outlets in Bora Bora sell black pearls, below are a few:

The Farm – Advertises top quality Tahiti pearls. Some of the jewelry is made in- house. It’s located just north of the Hotel Bora Bora (tel. 700 675).

Matira Pearls – Sells black pearls and local fashions. Located between the Intercontinental Le Moana Resort and Hotel Le Maitai Polynesia (tel.677 914).

Tahia Pearl Boutiques – You can choose from two Tahia Pearl Boutiques on Bora Bora. The first is at the Four Seasons hotel, the other is on the Circle Island Road at the centre of Vaitape.

Arc En Ciel – in my limited comprehension of French translation I thought I heard that this place was called Red Bull but it translates to Rainbow! The store is next to Les Delice restaurant and displays a wide variety of black pearls in a private showroom with the owner, Wendy being a Pearl Expert Graduate from the GIA (Gemological Institute of America). When we visited we spoke with Melanie and her trainee Taina. We were provided with an interesting briefing on how the precious black pearls are produced. Story board below:

black peral tahiti culture

We then checked out a good selection of pearls in a range of prices. We set two items aside, went for lunch at Saint James restaurant just along the coast, then visited three other black pearl shops to compare prices.

We realised that our initial offer from Melanie was in fact a very good deal and went ahead with our purchase. Melanie also explained the tax refund process at Bora Bora Airport and provided us with our certificate of authentication. A good afternoon out in Vaitape. Remember if you call or email there is a free shuttle pick up and drop off for the shop.

http://www.arcencielborabora.com/web/

Tahitian Wine

Tahiti is one of the world’s least-known wine regions. As unlikely as it might seem, wine is produced on this tropical island, albeit in small amounts.

Tahiti’s only winemaker is Dominique Auroy, who highlights the similarity between the soils there and in Burgundy, France. However, the climate is exceptionally different from anywhere in mainland France.

Tahiti wine is certainly worth a try, there are four varieties — three whites and a rosé: Blanc de Corail, Blanc Moelleux, Clos du Recif (white white made from red grapes), and Rosé Nacarat (blend of white and red grapes).

These wines are available at most restaurants or supermarkets and cost on average the equivalent of £8 a glass or £40 a bottle in a decent restaurant, much less at a supermarket.

In addition to wine, Tahiti also produces good quality beer, from malt imported from New Zealand and France. It is brewed in Papeete, the Tahitian capital, and is sold under the Hinano label.

Spoken Language

French and Tahitian are the main languages spoken on the island, though most locals have an excellent basic command of English. The majority of visitors to Bora Bora are American, Japanese or European.

The following are some essential Tahitian words and phrases. If it helps, sing the words like the locals!

  • Hello – Ia Orana (yo-rah-nah)
  • Welcome – Maeva (mah-yeh-vah)
  • Thank you – Maururu (mah-roo-roo)
  • Man – Tane (tah-nay)
  • Woman – Vahine (vah-he-nay)
  • Child – T amarii (tah-ma-ree-ee)
  • Bye/See you later – Nana (nah-nah)
  • Cheers / To your health – Manuia (mah-nwee-ah)
  • Good – Maitai (my-tie)
  • Yes–E(ay)
  • No – Aita (eye-tah)
  • Morning – Poipoi (poy-poy)
  • Evening – Ahiahi (ah-hee-ah-hee)
  • Island – Motu (moh-too)
  • Look – A hi’o (ah-hee-oh)
  • Ocean – Moana (mo-ah-nah)
  • How are you? – Maita’i oe? (may-tay oh-ay)
  • I am fine – Maita’i roa (may-tay ro-ah)
  • What? – Eaha? (ey-ah-hah)
  • Why? – No te aha? (noh-tay ah-hah)
  • No problem – Aita pe’a pe’a (eye-tah pay-ah pay-ah)
  • Bread – Faraoa (fah-rah-o-ah)
  • Water – Pape (pa-pay)
  • Pearl – Poe (po-ay)
  • Black pearl – Poerava (po-ay ra-vah)
  • Flower – Tiare (tee-ah-ray)
  • Beer – Pia (pee-ah)
  • Let’s go – Haere tatou (ha-ay-ray tah-taw)

It’s worth learning some basic phrases, the locals will really appreciate your efforts. Everyone on the island acknowledges you in some way on a daily basis, even the young kids, and always with huge smiles.

Time Flies By in Bora Bora

Unfortunately, it’s over in a flash!

Travel 10,000 miles and I believe you have the right to expect a really good experience. I can assure you despite jet lag, monsoon rain and some language challenges (as I struggle with French) Bora Bora is a truly tropical paradise with stunning scenery and beaches. The main island sits within white sandy motus (small islands) and a stunning turquoise lagoon protected by an outer coral reef. It is a popular luxury resort destination but with the advent of sites like Airbnb it opens up to a wider market and those who want privacy as well as flexible budget options. Bungalow Hititini and our hosts Moeata and Christophe certainly exceeded all expectations and come very highly recommended!

The memory of my visit will last forever, and I have promised a return, hopefully sometime soon. One factor that jumps out at me is how accommodating and friendly the locals are. Ironically they think we are lucky having the means to visit the island but thinking about it, they are most certainly the lucky ones with their wealth derived from climate, culture and lifestyle.

To the next lucky local who says hello or welcome I say:

Mauruuru Bora Bora
E hoi mai iau faahou i u nei
Mauruuru – (Thank you Bora Bora, I really hope to come back soon!)

Nana (nah-nah) – See you later!

Video of Rogues Guide to Bora Bora By Calum

The Journey | Background | Volcano  | Accommodation | Restaurants | Adventure | Video


Calum Glenny
Gourock’s ‘Avid Traveller’

In association with the Rogues Guide by Rogues in Paradise

Rogues in paradise is the upcoming book on the History of the People of Barbados. The island was named by the Portuguese navigator Pedro A.Camposbecause of the magnificent Bearded fig trees that were abundant on the island. It means “the bearded one” in Portuguese. The Spanish also occupied Barbados for some time before it was claimed by the British.